2025 Speakers & Topics
List of Services
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MAP TO THE FUTURE: PROGRESS ON THE MENTOR APPRENTICESHIP PROGRAM
Launched in March 2023, MJSA's Mentor/Apprenticeship Program (MAP) quickly gained approval from the Department of Labor and Office of Apprenticeship. It was designated as the National Guidelines Standard, a first in US history. The jewelry industry is facing a lack of skilled workers as well as disjointed training without a clear pathway for advancement. This presentation will outline how to become a participant and access this training program for your staff. We will also cover other available programs. The audience will learn about the guiding educational principles that can reinvigorate and bring respectful certification to the position of Bench Jeweler.
Nanz Aalund Nanz Aalund Art Jewelry. - Canada
Nanz Aalund’s wide ranging career as an author, designer, goldsmith, and educator began in high school jewelry arts class. After serving as a fine jewelry designer and marketing consultant for Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus, and Tiffany & Co., Nanz taught jewelry/metals classes as the “Artist-in-Residence” at the University of Washington. She holds a Masters of Fine Art/Metals and a Masters of Education/College & Technical Teaching Curriculum. Nanz’s most recent book, “A Jeweler’s Guide to Apprenticeship” published by MJSA in 2017, received an AM&P Excel Awards in 2018. In 2023 the Cultured Pearl Association of America’s (CPAA) International Spotlight Award was awarded to Aalund’s Pearl Nebula on platinum necklace.
MAP TO THE FUTURE: PROGRESS ON THE MENTOR APPRENTICESHIP PROGRAM
Launched in March 2023, MJSA's Mentor/Apprenticeship Program (MAP) quickly gained approval from the Department of Labor and Office of Apprenticeship. It was designated as the National Guidelines Standard, a first in US history. The jewelry industry is facing a lack of skilled workers as well as disjointed training without a clear pathway for advancement. This presentation will outline how to become a participant and access this training program for your staff. We will also cover other available programs. The audience will learn about the guiding educational principles that can reinvigorate and bring respectful certification to the position of Bench Jeweler.
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A SURVEY OF INVESTMENT CASTING TECHNIQUES FOR HIGH-TEMPERATURE ALLOYS
This paper will explore typical investment types that jewelers are used to, the types dental labs use, and even ceramic shell. Various properties will be investigated and discussed, including the strengths and weaknesses of the various investment types. This will cover pattern and flask setup, mixing, bench cure, and burnout. This presentation will showcase other mold-making technologies to encourage jewelers' creative inclinations and open new possibilities to further their art. The technical knowledge shared will benefit manufacturers in dialing in an existing process or discovering something new for implementation.
Katie Aboul-Hosn Ransom & Randolph
Katie Elco is the Product Development Engineer at Ransom & Randolph. She is instrumental in research and testing done to develop cutting edge technology for the investment casting industry.
A SURVEY OF INVESTMENT CASTING TECHNIQUES FOR HIGH-TEMPERATURE ALLOYS
This paper will explore typical investment types that jewelers are used to, the types dental labs use, and even ceramic shell. Various properties will be investigated and discussed, including the strengths and weaknesses of the various investment types. This will cover pattern and flask setup, mixing, bench cure, and burnout. This presentation will showcase other mold-making technologies to encourage jewelers' creative inclinations and open new possibilities to further their art. The technical knowledge shared will benefit manufacturers in dialing in an existing process or discovering something new for implementation.
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ENHANCING CASTABILITY AND FIRE CRACKING RESISTANCE IN 18K ROSE GOLD ALLOYS: CHALLENGES AND SOLUTIONS
In the last 15 years, driven by the luxury jewelry sector, rose gold has experienced a resurgence in popularity. Despite its historical challenges, red gold is relatively easy to work with, but not so easy to assemble. A well-known technological problem with 18k rose gold alloys is their poor resistance to fire cracking. This weakness becomes particularly problematic during soldering or resizing, where uneven heating induces thermal stresses that, combined with the ordered phase precipitation typical of 18k rose gold, often cause fractures, especially in thinner sections of the piece. In recent years, new gold alloys with grain refiners have been developed to promote fine grain structures and reduce fire cracking. Unfortunately, grain refiners have also hindered the use of silicon, an essential element in gold alloys for casting purposes that provides a very clean, deoxidized surface that prevents reactions with the investment material. In fact, the combination of silicon and grain refiners consistently leads to the formation of hard spots. Through a comprehensive analysis, this study seeks to identify and validate methods to achieve the best possible balance between effective deoxidation and robust fire cracking resistance in 18k rose gold alloys.
Dr. Valentina Allodi Progold S.p.A.
Valentina Allodi is the R&D Manager at Progold S.p.A in Trissino, Italy. She holds a Master’s degree in Materials Science from the University of Parma and a PhD in Nanotechnology from the University of Verona. In 2011 she obtained a research fellowship at the University of Verona and was a researcher there until 2015. In the same year she started her collaboration with Progold. From the beginning, her work has been focused on innovation and research in the field of precious metal additive manufacturing, and from 2020 to 2022 she has been CTO of Progol3D, Progold's business unit for additive manufacturing. Since the beginning of 2023 she has held the current position of R&D Manager at Progold. Valentina has contributed to many of Progold's presentations at the Santa Fe Symposium®, in planning, research, and writing.
ENHANCING CASTABILITY AND FIRE CRACKING RESISTANCE IN 18K ROSE GOLD ALLOYS: CHALLENGES AND SOLUTIONS
In the last 15 years, driven by the luxury jewelry sector, rose gold has experienced a resurgence in popularity. Despite its historical challenges, red gold is relatively easy to work with, but not so easy to assemble. A well-known technological problem with 18k rose gold alloys is their poor resistance to fire cracking. This weakness becomes particularly problematic during soldering or resizing, where uneven heating induces thermal stresses that, combined with the ordered phase precipitation typical of 18k rose gold, often cause fractures, especially in thinner sections of the piece. In recent years, new gold alloys with grain refiners have been developed to promote fine grain structures and reduce fire cracking. Unfortunately, grain refiners have also hindered the use of silicon, an essential element in gold alloys for casting purposes that provides a very clean, deoxidized surface that prevents reactions with the investment material. In fact, the combination of silicon and grain refiners consistently leads to the formation of hard spots. Through a comprehensive analysis, this study seeks to identify and validate methods to achieve the best possible balance between effective deoxidation and robust fire cracking resistance in 18k rose gold alloys.
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FIVE Ms FOR DIE-STRUCK JEWELRY MAKING
Die Striking is a “premier” process for the jewelry industry. The benefits include a porosity-free surface, consistency of critical quality features. What happens when you have invested in a die striking process, but you obtain unsatisfactory results including rework, missing deadlines or high scrap? In this paper, I will provide a 5 M approach to explore possible causes of failure of the die striking process and how to prevent them.
MAN POWER (or Human Power): develop a training program to teach a basic middle and senior understanding of die striking. Many defects are the result of insufficient training. MACHINES: Different machines can be used for die striking jewelry, each has a unique application,and needs comprehensive preventive maintenance (PM) program for machinery and tools. MATERIALS: The quality of the die striking process is related to the quality of the raw materials. Whether purchasing or making them, materials need to be carefully inspected prior to the press operation. METHOD: Initial die trials parameters need to be documented for first piece and in-line inspection. MEASUREMENT: It is vital to verify the tools and raw materials, temper or hardness for tools, and dies and materials.
Edgar Andrade Tiffany & Co.
Edgar Andrade, based in Cumberland, RI, US, is currently Tool Room Supervisor at Tiffany & Co. He brings experience from previous roles at Arrow Fastener, Dräger and Riva Precision Manufacturing Inc.. Edgar holds a degree from Salesian Higher Technical Institute in Cuenca, Ecuador, a NJMEP Six Sigma Green Belt Certification, and has a robust skill set that includes Product Development, Lean manufacturing and Tool and Die Making.
FIVE Ms FOR DIE-STRUCK JEWELRY MAKING
Die Striking is a “premier” process for the jewelry industry. The benefits include a porosity-free surface, consistency of critical quality features. What happens when you have invested in a die striking process, but you obtain unsatisfactory results including rework, missing deadlines or high scrap? In this paper, I will provide a 5 M approach to explore possible causes of failure of the die striking process and how to prevent them.
MAN POWER (or Human Power): develop a training program to teach a basic middle and senior understanding of die striking. Many defects are the result of insufficient training. MACHINES: Different machines can be used for die striking jewelry, each has a unique application,and needs comprehensive preventive maintenance (PM) program for machinery and tools. MATERIALS: The quality of the die striking process is related to the quality of the raw materials. Whether purchasing or making them, materials need to be carefully inspected prior to the press operation. METHOD: Initial die trials parameters need to be documented for first piece and in-line inspection. MEASUREMENT: It is vital to verify the tools and raw materials, temper or hardness for tools, and dies and materials.
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ALGORITHMIC JEWELRY APPLICATIONS IN GRASSHOPPER 3D
Rhino is one of the most prevalent CAD programs on the market today for jewelry-making, but it lacks jewelry-specific features requiring roundabout ways to accomplish basic tasks needed by jewelers. As a result, many purchase expensive plugins to add jewelry-related commands and features to simplify these tasks. What if you could build some of these yourself with something already inside your Rhino installation? In this presentation, I will introduce to the jewelry industry the virtues of using Grasshopper 3D to create custom builders, with the ability to customize based on the user's preferences, under the context of how to construct a Metal Weights Calculator, and add features that are not found in any Rhino Jewery plugin on the market today. I will also demonstrate special use cases for constructing other jewelry items in Grasshopper 3D to increase efficiency and enhance customization.
Scott Bradford Gesswein
Currently a Technical Sales Engineer at Gesswein, Scott is a jewelry manufacturing expert specializing in digital and additive manufacturing technologies, CAD/CAM, casting manufacturing and troubleshooting. He is a JA Certified Bench Jeweler, GIA Accredited Jewelry Professional, educator, and has been an Industry speaker at MJSA, Portland Jewelry Symposium, and Society of North American Goldsmiths. Scott is a frequent contributor to MJSA Journal, advising on all aspects and techniques of jewelry-making.
ALGORITHMIC JEWELRY APPLICATIONS IN GRASSHOPPER 3D
Rhino is one of the most prevalent CAD programs on the market today for jewelry-making, but it lacks jewelry-specific features requiring roundabout ways to accomplish basic tasks needed by jewelers. As a result, many purchase expensive plugins to add jewelry-related commands and features to simplify these tasks. What if you could build some of these yourself with something already inside your Rhino installation? In this presentation, I will introduce to the jewelry industry the virtues of using Grasshopper 3D to create custom builders, with the ability to customize based on the user's preferences, under the context of how to construct a Metal Weights Calculator, and add features that are not found in any Rhino Jewery plugin on the market today. I will also demonstrate special use cases for constructing other jewelry items in Grasshopper 3D to increase efficiency and enhance customization.
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NAVIGATING THE NEXUS: HOW RESPONSIBLE SUPPLY CHAINS FOR COLORED GEMSTONES ADD VALUE AMIDST THE CHALLENGE OF SYNTHETIC MISREPRESENTATION
Responsible supply chains depend on accurately identifying and tracing gemstone materials. By understanding their origins and sources, you help eliminate the risk of synthetics being misrepresented as ‘natural.’ This transparency also clarifies any treatments that may have been applied to the gemstones. Ultimately, you benefit from a comprehensive view of the supply chain, as well as significantly reducing the chances of acquiring synthetics or undisclosed treatments in your gemstone purchases. In this presentation you will gain insight into the social development value of responsible supply chains and learn to eliminate synthetics in the market and how to connect with the needs of younger buyers.
Eric Braunwart Columbia Gem House
Eric Braunwart, Founder and President of Columbia Gem House (CGH) is forging the path to a world where responsibly sourced gems are the rule, not the exception. With over 45 years of industry experience, Eric wrote the world’s first Fair Trade Gems® Principles & Protocols in 2001, which CGH still operates by today. Committed to creating a positive impact at every touchpoint from mine-to-market, CGH specializes in tracking and tracing its gemstones. Eric and his team openly share detailed information on every gem they sell by assigning various Fair Trade Gems® Levels to each stone. After more than four decades of working in gemstone development and cutting, Eric holds a deep understanding of the process and aims to share that with others. Working with governments, non-profits, and other gem miners and cutters worldwide, Eric works diligently to ensure safe workplaces, fair wages, responsible sourcing, and environmentally responsible gem mining.
NAVIGATING THE NEXUS: HOW RESPONSIBLE SUPPLY CHAINS FOR COLORED GEMSTONES ADD VALUE AMIDST THE CHALLENGE OF SYNTHETIC MISREPRESENTATION
Responsible supply chains depend on accurately identifying and tracing gemstone materials. By understanding their origins and sources, you help eliminate the risk of synthetics being misrepresented as ‘natural.’ This transparency also clarifies any treatments that may have been applied to the gemstones. Ultimately, you benefit from a comprehensive view of the supply chain, as well as significantly reducing the chances of acquiring synthetics or undisclosed treatments in your gemstone purchases. In this presentation you will gain insight into the social development value of responsible supply chains and learn to eliminate synthetics in the market and how to connect with the needs of younger buyers.
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QUANTITATIVE DESCRIPTION OF COLOR CHANGES OF 18 KARAT GOLD ALLOYS DURING TARNISHING TESTS
The color of 18K gold alloys appears stable over time. However, slow color changes appear, especially in contact with human skin, which might result in visible color changes. In particular, red gold alloys are prone to discoloration from red to yellow. In the past, several successful attempts have been made to increase the color stability of red gold alloys by additions of Pt, Pd, In or other elements. It appeared that there was a strong scatter in the color stability data of the 5N reference alloy among different studies. Therefore, we studied the color stability of 2N and 5N 18K gold alloys under defined conditions over long periods under different standardized conditions. Even when exposed to air at room temperature, the color change of both alloys is so pronounced that the tolerance range of the color in accordance with ISO 8654 cannot be maintained. In this presentation, become aware of 18k alloy stability issues, learn about the advancements in alloy formulation, enabling the creation of more durable and color-stable jewelry, and gain insight into the factors affecting gold alloy color stability.
Florian Bulling fem Research Institute Precious Metals + Metals Chemistry
Florian Bulling is Head of the Physical Metallurgy Department at fem. He studied Material Science at the University of Aalen, Germany, until 2017 and then he started working at fem research Institute, Germany, as a scientific employee. He’s managing research projects in the department of physical metallurgy and is the person in charge of the casting laboratory at fem. His research topics are investment casting of highly reactive alloys, alloy development and ceramic mold production by additive manufacturing and by slurry fabrication.
QUANTITATIVE DESCRIPTION OF COLOR CHANGES OF 18 KARAT GOLD ALLOYS DURING TARNISHING TESTS
The color of 18K gold alloys appears stable over time. However, slow color changes appear, especially in contact with human skin, which might result in visible color changes. In particular, red gold alloys are prone to discoloration from red to yellow. In the past, several successful attempts have been made to increase the color stability of red gold alloys by additions of Pt, Pd, In or other elements. It appeared that there was a strong scatter in the color stability data of the 5N reference alloy among different studies. Therefore, we studied the color stability of 2N and 5N 18K gold alloys under defined conditions over long periods under different standardized conditions. Even when exposed to air at room temperature, the color change of both alloys is so pronounced that the tolerance range of the color in accordance with ISO 8654 cannot be maintained. In this presentation, become aware of 18k alloy stability issues, learn about the advancements in alloy formulation, enabling the creation of more durable and color-stable jewelry, and gain insight into the factors affecting gold alloy color stability.
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BASIC METALLURGY OF THE PRECIOUS METALS - PART III: CRACKS AND OTHER DEFECTS - THEIR CAUSES AND PREVENTION
All jewelers suffer from defects in manufacture from time to time. The cracks and other defects may look similar, but the cause can be varied. In this third part of the Basic Metallurgy series, we examine some of the common defects that can occur that can lead to problems in both manufacture and later in service with the customer. It is not easy to pinpoint the cause in many instances. The causes of such defects, some of which can lead to difficulties in manufacturing quality and to cracking and fracture, and the steps that can be taken to minimize their occurrence are reviewed. An appreciation of the factors that lead to defects should aid the jeweler in defining the cause when they inevitably arise.
Dr. Christopher W. Corti COReGOLD Technology Consultancy
Dr. Corti holds a Ph.D. in metallurgy from the University of Surrey (UK) and is the managing director of COReGOLD Technology Consultancy. He has more than 45 years of experience in the precious metals industry, initially with Johnson Matthey at their Research Centre. He worked for the World Gold Council from 1994 to 2004 and served as a consultant there until 2009. Chris edited Gold Technology, Gold Bulletin and the series of World Gold Council handbooks/manuals. He is currently a consultant for the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths. Dr. Corti presented at the Santa Fe Symposium® for 24 years and is a recipient of the Santa Fe Symposium Research, Technology, Ambassador and Lifetime Achievement Awards.
BASIC METALLURGY OF THE PRECIOUS METALS - PART III: CRACKS AND OTHER DEFECTS - THEIR CAUSES AND PREVENTION
All jewelers suffer from defects in manufacture from time to time. The cracks and other defects may look similar, but the cause can be varied. In this third part of the Basic Metallurgy series, we examine some of the common defects that can occur that can lead to problems in both manufacture and later in service with the customer. It is not easy to pinpoint the cause in many instances. The causes of such defects, some of which can lead to difficulties in manufacturing quality and to cracking and fracture, and the steps that can be taken to minimize their occurrence are reviewed. An appreciation of the factors that lead to defects should aid the jeweler in defining the cause when they inevitably arise.
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THE EVOLUTION OF PLATINUM ALLOYS FOR JEWELLERY APPLICATION OVER THE LAST CENTURY
Platinum has only been known to Europe since the 16th century. However, the use of platinum in jewellery dates from the late 19th/early 20th century, often as a basis for diamond (and other precious gemstone) jewellery. Early jewellery alloys tended to be based on the existing industrial alloys and comparatively little development of specific jewellery alloys was carried out. Its acceptance as a hallmarkable jewellery metal came in 1975 when, with a wider availability of the metal, platinum was marketed as a high value jewellery metal and platinum jewellery started to grow in popularity, mainly at 950 and 900 fineness qualities. Since that time there has been considerable alloy development specifically for jewellery application and tailored to the requirements of different manufacturing technologies.
The evolution of platinum jewellery alloys over the last century is reviewed in the context of the challenges presented in its use for jewellery application. It is noted that there has been a substantial increase in alloy development over the last 30 years, particularly focused on improved investment (lost wax) casting alloys as well as better mechanical properties.
Dr. Christopher W. Corti COReGOLD Technology Consultancy
Dr. Corti holds a Ph.D. in metallurgy from the University of Surrey (UK) and is the managing director of COReGOLD Technology Consultancy. He has more than 45 years of experience in the precious metals industry, initially with Johnson Matthey at their Research Centre. He worked for the World Gold Council from 1994 to 2004 and served as a consultant there until 2009. Chris edited Gold Technology, Gold Bulletin and the series of World Gold Council handbooks/manuals. He is currently a consultant for the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths. Dr. Corti presented at the Santa Fe Symposium® for 24 years and is a recipient of the Santa Fe Symposium Research, Technology, Ambassador and Lifetime Achievement Awards.
THE EVOLUTION OF PLATINUM ALLOYS FOR JEWELLERY APPLICATION OVER THE LAST CENTURY
Platinum has only been known to Europe since the 16th century. However, the use of platinum in jewellery dates from the late 19th/early 20th century, often as a basis for diamond (and other precious gemstone) jewellery. Early jewellery alloys tended to be based on the existing industrial alloys and comparatively little development of specific jewellery alloys was carried out. Its acceptance as a hallmarkable jewellery metal came in 1975 when, with a wider availability of the metal, platinum was marketed as a high value jewellery metal and platinum jewellery started to grow in popularity, mainly at 950 and 900 fineness qualities. Since that time there has been considerable alloy development specifically for jewellery application and tailored to the requirements of different manufacturing technologies.
The evolution of platinum jewellery alloys over the last century is reviewed in the context of the challenges presented in its use for jewellery application. It is noted that there has been a substantial increase in alloy development over the last 30 years, particularly focused on improved investment (lost wax) casting alloys as well as better mechanical properties.
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HEAT RESISTANT CULTURED OPALS BUST OPEN NEW CREATIVE POSSIBILITIES FOR JEWELERS
Opals are known as the Queen of gems. Their sparkle, play of light, and color are mesmerizing and alluring in jewelry. Jewelers have been told natural opals cannot be cast in place in molten metal or fired in place in Metal Clay, and they need to be set traditionally with a bezel or prongs for inclusion in their jewelry. This is because it will become mere dust if exposed to extreme heat. This all changed when we discovered a Cultured Opal that can take heat up to 1650ºF / 900ºC. I put these beauties through an extensive series of tests. I’ll cover what makes these Cultured Opals different from naturally grown Opals, how to fire them in Metal Clay or cast them in place, and how to work with them during the finishing stages of adding a polish, patina on the metal, or tumbling them without injury. Additionally, we'll discuss educating customers about their choices in buying cultured opals or natural opals by comparing and contrasting the pros and cons of each choice, including issues of sustainability, ethical issues, and forced labor concerns.
Holly Gage Gage Designs
Holly Gage, the founder of Gage Designs, is a celebrated jewelry designer. She has been honored with the Saul Bell Design Award for her distinction in jewelry design and the AMCAW Innovation Grant Award for her groundbreaking work in developing firing techniques for Fire in Place Cultured Opals in jewelry. Holly is a pioneer in the Metal Clay community, specializing in creating contemporary jewelry and sharing her unique techniques through a blend of design instruction and technical proficiency. She is dedicated to fostering innovation, creativity, and helping others find their artistic voice through her classes, mentoring programs, master workshops, and retreats, which are available live online, at her studio in PA, in the US, and internationally. Holly holds a BS in Fine Art and Education and is a full-time jewelry artist with 47 years in the jewelry industry. She is a Certified Metal Clay Instructor, author, and conference speaker. Her jewelry and articles on techniques and design have been featured in over 80 regional and national publications, including the Best of America Jewelry Artists, Handmade Business: Named 3rd in Top Makers, Movers, and Shakers, and Metal Clay Today. For more information about Holly’s jewelry, classes, awards, as well as Metal Clay tips, tutorials, and blogs, you can visit her website at http://www.HollyGage.com.
HEAT RESISTANT CULTURED OPALS BUST OPEN NEW CREATIVE POSSIBILITIES FOR JEWELERS
Opals are known as the Queen of gems. Their sparkle, play of light, and color are mesmerizing and alluring in jewelry. Jewelers have been told natural opals cannot be cast in place in molten metal or fired in place in Metal Clay, and they need to be set traditionally with a bezel or prongs for inclusion in their jewelry. This is because it will become mere dust if exposed to extreme heat. This all changed when we discovered a Cultured Opal that can take heat up to 1650ºF / 900ºC. I put these beauties through an extensive series of tests. I’ll cover what makes these Cultured Opals different from naturally grown Opals, how to fire them in Metal Clay or cast them in place, and how to work with them during the finishing stages of adding a polish, patina on the metal, or tumbling them without injury. Additionally, we'll discuss educating customers about their choices in buying cultured opals or natural opals by comparing and contrasting the pros and cons of each choice, including issues of sustainability, ethical issues, and forced labor concerns.
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THE BASICS FOR GOLD PLATING: HANDS-ON TECHNIQUES AND ESSENTIAL MAINTENANCE FOR OPTIMAL RESULTS
This paper provides a comprehensive overview of the gold plating processes, detailing the essential steps and considerations. It covers the pre-treatment phase, which includes surface preparation and cleaning to ensure optimal adhesion. The core plating process is examined, highlighting the specific conditions required for gold plating, such as temperature, voltage, and time. Post-treatment procedures, including rinsing and drying, are discussed to ensure high-quality finishes. Additionally, the paper addresses maintenance and replenishment of plating baths, emphasizing the importance of regular monitoring and chemical adjustments to maintain bath performance and longevity. This guide serves as a valuable resource for understanding the fundamentals of gold and rhodium plating, ensuring efficient and effective application in various industrial settings.
Marisol Jimenez Gonzalez Legor Group SpA
* Co-presented with co-author Abdul Al-Mamari of Legor USA
Marisol holds a Bachelor's Degree in Chemical Engineering and has 15 years of extensive experience in jewelry manufacturing, specializing in plating and casting processes for precious metals. As a consultant and Managing Director of Legor Mexico, she brings comprehensive expertise in quality control, plating line installation, electrogalvanic processes, and metal casting across Mexico and Latin America. Her client-centered approach has established Marisol as a trusted advisor in the jewelry industry, where she helps businesses achieve consistent, high-quality results in metal finishing and product excellence.
THE BASICS FOR GOLD PLATING: HANDS-ON TECHNIQUES AND ESSENTIAL MAINTENANCE FOR OPTIMAL RESULTS
This paper provides a comprehensive overview of the gold plating processes, detailing the essential steps and considerations. It covers the pre-treatment phase, which includes surface preparation and cleaning to ensure optimal adhesion. The core plating process is examined, highlighting the specific conditions required for gold plating, such as temperature, voltage, and time. Post-treatment procedures, including rinsing and drying, are discussed to ensure high-quality finishes. Additionally, the paper addresses maintenance and replenishment of plating baths, emphasizing the importance of regular monitoring and chemical adjustments to maintain bath performance and longevity. This guide serves as a valuable resource for understanding the fundamentals of gold and rhodium plating, ensuring efficient and effective application in various industrial settings.
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GRAY SCALE MODELING USING HEIGHTFIELD TO CREATE JEWELRY DESIGNS
Create 3D jewelry designs from 2D drawings using gray scale to give depth to a 3D model when using a height field going directly from a 2D drawing to a 3D jewelry design. This process is great for organic designs that are almost impossible to do in CAD programs like Rhino. It has cut my production time by 50 to75%. This process has changed my whole way of doing jewelry design, eliminating the need for CAD. I have been creating this system for over 10 years and now use it for all my designs.
Richard M. Gretz Richard Gretz Goldsmiths
Richard Gretz began creating and designing jewelry as an art student at Oregon State University. With a degree in art, he has a passion for fine craftsmanship and beautiful gemstones in hand-made jewelry, a natural medium for his creativity. For over 30 years, he has been one of the leading designer-goldsmiths in the Northwest. He is always learning and exploring new concepts of the jewelry trade. He started Richard Gretz Goldsmiths in 1978 and has been creating unique and beautiful jewelry for customers far and wide ever since. After more than 40 trips to Asia to buy gems, we have the Willamette Valley’s best collection of natural-colored gems and diamonds.
GRAY SCALE MODELING USING HEIGHTFIELD TO CREATE JEWELRY DESIGNS
Create 3D jewelry designs from 2D drawings using gray scale to give depth to a 3D model when using a height field going directly from a 2D drawing to a 3D jewelry design. This process is great for organic designs that are almost impossible to do in CAD programs like Rhino. It has cut my production time by 50 to75%. This process has changed my whole way of doing jewelry design, eliminating the need for CAD. I have been creating this system for over 10 years and now use it for all my designs.
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DIAMOND WORLD: WHAT OPPORTUNITIES DOES THE MARKET OFFER ON NATURAL, SYNTHETIC AND RECYCLED DIAMONDS?
The market of diamonds is moving faster than ever. Diamonds are now available in every quality and every variation: natural, synthetic or recycled. But what does this mean, for the goldsmith, sales agent and not least for the customer. This paper will answer the following questions: What exactly are the advantages or disadvantages of synthetic diamonds? How can they be checked reliably? Not only in the part of jewelry production and its sale, but also in the acceptance of jewelry for repair and the purchase of jewelry for resale. Are synthetic diamonds "green" diamonds? We will review current testing methods, design opportunities synthetic diamonds offer, options for advising customers on the right diamond choice for them, and an investigation into the possible legal pitfalls regarding synthetic/natural diamonds when accepting repairs and rebuying jewelry.
Margaretha Held Margaretha Held Jewelry & Object Design
Margaretha Held, master goldsmith and jewelry designer, works as a lecturer in the field of gold buying (o.t.c.) and the reselling of high-quality jewelry with diamonds. In addition to this activity, she is also the owner of Margarteha Held Schmuck und Objektdesign in Durlangen, Germany. She trained as a jewelry designer and silversmith at the jewelry school in Schwäbisch Gmünd and obtained her master goldsmith certificate in Ulm. A numismatics enthusiast, Margaretha is a winner of the Platinum Design Award (Commendation) 2004, was the initiator of the Schwäbische Gmünder Workshop 2017 and a speaker at the Santa Fe Symposium®.
DIAMOND WORLD: WHAT OPPORTUNITIES DOES THE MARKET OFFER ON NATURAL, SYNTHETIC AND RECYCLED DIAMONDS?
The market of diamonds is moving faster than ever. Diamonds are now available in every quality and every variation: natural, synthetic or recycled. But what does this mean, for the goldsmith, sales agent and not least for the customer. This paper will answer the following questions: What exactly are the advantages or disadvantages of synthetic diamonds? How can they be checked reliably? Not only in the part of jewelry production and its sale, but also in the acceptance of jewelry for repair and the purchase of jewelry for resale. Are synthetic diamonds "green" diamonds? We will review current testing methods, design opportunities synthetic diamonds offer, options for advising customers on the right diamond choice for them, and an investigation into the possible legal pitfalls regarding synthetic/natural diamonds when accepting repairs and rebuying jewelry.
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GENERATIVE AI AND JEWELRY MANUFACTURING
Technology changes are major disruptors in manufacturing. To stay competitive, it is important to understand significant technological developments and the impact they may have on jewelry manufacturing. This presentation explores Generative AI technology, its key capabilities, how the jewelry industry is adopting this technology, and how jewelry manufacturers may take advantage to improve business processes and the customer experience.
Anne B. Miller Business Transformation Consultant
Anne Miller is a business transformation consultant with over thirty years experience helping companies improve performance through process improvement. Her projects include digital transformation, radical process simplification and organization and culture change across marketing, sales and sales support, supply chain and customer service business functions. Her current engagement is with Herff Jones, an American company that manufactures and sells educational recognition and achievement products and motivational materials. There she is consulting with the Jewelry Division’s customer service team on multiple projects to improve efficiencies and quality. Anne is a Lean Six Sigma Blackbelt with additional skills in Design Thinking and Agile methodologies. She is a recipient of the Santa Fe Symposium® “Business Innovation” award, and recognized three times at IBM with an “Eminence and Excellence in Innovation” award.
GENERATIVE AI AND JEWELRY MANUFACTURING
Technology changes are major disruptors in manufacturing. To stay competitive, it is important to understand significant technological developments and the impact they may have on jewelry manufacturing. This presentation explores Generative AI technology, its key capabilities, how the jewelry industry is adopting this technology, and how jewelry manufacturers may take advantage to improve business processes and the customer experience.
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ENHANCING SAFETY AND AESTHETICS IN MODERN BODY PIERCING JEWELRY: A COMPREHENSIVE APPROACH TO HEALTH AND SAFETY
As piercing studios expand globally, there is a growing need to raise the bar for safer, more comfortable jewelry. This presentation addresses the advancement of safety protocols in body jewelry, from a professional piercer’s perspective. In this presentation, we delve into the stringent quality controls essential for body piercing jewelry designed for initial and long-term use, emphasizing the importance of developing and adhering to robust consumer safety standards. We discuss the comprehensive manufacturing standards and innovative testing protocols that ensure these products are safe for sensitive and new wearers. Moreover, we explore the critical role of effective geometric design in jewelry intended for long-term wear, to not only boost aesthetic appeal, but enhance comfort and reduce health risks over time. By connecting these aspects, this study calls for higher industry benchmarks and encourages advancements that prioritize and maintain the safety, integrity, and functionality of body piercing jewelry.
Pablo Perelmuter Association of Professional Piercers
Pablo is originally from Buenos Aires, Argentina where he started his career over 20 years ago. He has worked at top studios across the Bay Area and is recognized as being an industry resource for best practices and environmental standards. Pablo loves custom jewelry design and Ear Curation. Clients often look forward to seeing Pablo's Photoshop skills in action during their appointment. Pablo is an instructor and the Medical Liaison for the Association of Professional Piercers. With a special interest in science and standards, his courses have included topics on building and updating studios to be environmentally safe, autoclave repair and maintenance, and best practices in body piercing. As an educator, Pablo also teaches internationally for many piercing-specific health and safety organizations.
ENHANCING SAFETY AND AESTHETICS IN MODERN BODY PIERCING JEWELRY: A COMPREHENSIVE APPROACH TO HEALTH AND SAFETY
As piercing studios expand globally, there is a growing need to raise the bar for safer, more comfortable jewelry. This presentation addresses the advancement of safety protocols in body jewelry, from a professional piercer’s perspective. In this presentation, we delve into the stringent quality controls essential for body piercing jewelry designed for initial and long-term use, emphasizing the importance of developing and adhering to robust consumer safety standards. We discuss the comprehensive manufacturing standards and innovative testing protocols that ensure these products are safe for sensitive and new wearers. Moreover, we explore the critical role of effective geometric design in jewelry intended for long-term wear, to not only boost aesthetic appeal, but enhance comfort and reduce health risks over time. By connecting these aspects, this study calls for higher industry benchmarks and encourages advancements that prioritize and maintain the safety, integrity, and functionality of body piercing jewelry.
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COPPER AND SILVER MOKUME GANE
Copper and silver mokume gane is one of the least expensive combinations of mokume materials involving precious metal. It is a typical “beginner billet”, yet it is much more difficult to bond than other combinations of precious materials. This difficulty can lead to frustration and keep people from exploring mokume gane further. This presentation aims to study this system and come up with a better understanding of why this combination is difficult to bond and to come up with a system of best practices to alleviate these problems. Additionally, the silver and copper galvanic cell will be discussed.
Chris Ploof Chris Ploof Designs
*Co-authored with Jim Binnion of James Binnion Metal Arts and Stewart Grice of Hoover & Strong
Chris Ploof is the owner of and principle designer at Chris Ploof Designs, a manufacturer of high-quality wedding rings and other jewelry specially created using laminated materials. His background includes studies ranging from large-scale casting and glasswork to lapidary, blacksmithing, and machining. He is a recipient of the Santa Fe Symposium® Ambassador Award, the Jewelry Technology Leader Award, a two-time recipient of the Industry Leader Award and a three-time recipient of the Collaborative Research Award.
COPPER AND SILVER MOKUME GANE
Copper and silver mokume gane is one of the least expensive combinations of mokume materials involving precious metal. It is a typical “beginner billet”, yet it is much more difficult to bond than other combinations of precious materials. This difficulty can lead to frustration and keep people from exploring mokume gane further. This presentation aims to study this system and come up with a better understanding of why this combination is difficult to bond and to come up with a system of best practices to alleviate these problems. Additionally, the silver and copper galvanic cell will be discussed.
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HANDMAKING CHERRY BLOSSOM EARRINGS, FROM START TO FINISH
We will see the complete process of creating earrings in the shape of cherry blossom branches with flowers, made with titanium, yellow gold, pink and yellow sapphires, and diamonds. At the beginning of this process, we will observe the real flower, draw up the initial sketches, and test new materials and techniques to see the challenges that may come up. With the final design, we will explore how to work and texture the titanium to imitate cherry petals and branches, set sapphires and diamonds on the titanium, and make gold settings for the stigma and stamens. The titanium will be welded and anodized to achieve the color of the cherry blossom. All the parts will be assembled and the earring closures will be made. By covering the entire process, we will know how to make a floral piece and we will understand what it is like to work with these materials, focusing on the most technical and challenging steps.
Arturo Sanfelix Jeweler
Arturo Sanfelix graduated in Fine Arts from the Polytechnic University of Valencia, Spain and with a Degree in Design and Creative Technologies from the University of Applied Sciences Fachhochschule in Mainz, Germany. From his jewelry studio he creates unique pieces for private clients, trying to make jewelry with a unique nature, respecting the classic canons of the traditional craftmanship and with a strong avant-garde spirit. Sanfelix combines innovation and tradition to create unique pieces of the highest quality. His pieces have been recognized in international jewelry competitions such as the Saul Bell Design Award in the United States (2017 winner) and the Milan Jewelry Week in Italy (2022 winner).
HANDMAKING CHERRY BLOSSOM EARRINGS, FROM START TO FINISH
We will see the complete process of creating earrings in the shape of cherry blossom branches with flowers, made with titanium, yellow gold, pink and yellow sapphires, and diamonds. At the beginning of this process, we will observe the real flower, draw up the initial sketches, and test new materials and techniques to see the challenges that may come up. With the final design, we will explore how to work and texture the titanium to imitate cherry petals and branches, set sapphires and diamonds on the titanium, and make gold settings for the stigma and stamens. The titanium will be welded and anodized to achieve the color of the cherry blossom. All the parts will be assembled and the earring closures will be made. By covering the entire process, we will know how to make a floral piece and we will understand what it is like to work with these materials, focusing on the most technical and challenging steps.
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THE EFFECT OF GRAIN REFINERS IN 18 KARAT YELLOW, PINK, & WHITE GOLD
Alloy properties change when some alloying elements are added. This paper will outline the effect of certain grain refiners on metallurgical and mechanical properties of 18K gold. The aim is to study the effect of grain refiners in yellow gold, pink gold & white gold. The weight percentage of added grain refiner element is kept constant among all 3 colors of gold to understand their linear effect. The metallurgical study has been carried out by inverted optical microscope. Paper will compare microstructure, Vickers hardness value and tensile properties of 18K gold altered by the addition of different grain refiner.
Meet Shah United Precious Metal Refining, Inc.
Meet Shah is a metallurgist at United PMR for past 6 years and a part of the R&D team. His experience covers wide range of areas including materials characterization techniques, welding and has a history of working as a Metallurgical Engineering Intern in a steel making company. Meet holds a master’s degree in Materials Science and Engineering from the University of Texas at Arlington, USA. He has been heavily involved in United’s alloy developing process and known in the industry for helping in troubleshooting defects occur in casting as well as fabrication process.
THE EFFECT OF GRAIN REFINERS IN 18 KARAT YELLOW, PINK, & WHITE GOLD
Alloy properties change when some alloying elements are added. This paper will outline the effect of certain grain refiners on metallurgical and mechanical properties of 18K gold. The aim is to study the effect of grain refiners in yellow gold, pink gold & white gold. The weight percentage of added grain refiner element is kept constant among all 3 colors of gold to understand their linear effect. The metallurgical study has been carried out by inverted optical microscope. Paper will compare microstructure, Vickers hardness value and tensile properties of 18K gold altered by the addition of different grain refiner.
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STUDY OF THE SURFACE FINISH AND GEOMETRIC TOLERANCE ATTAINABLE BY SINTER-BASED AM TECHNOLOGIES
The surface finish and geometric tolerance of a part are greatly affected by the manufacturing process and both of these attributes are of primary importance to jewelry manufacturing. Sinter-based additive manufacturing (AM) methods such as binder-jetting (BJT), material extrusion (MEX), material jetting (MJT), and vat photopolymerization (VPP) are of interest to jewelry manufacturing as they may have the potential to produce better surface finishes and tolerances than parts produced by laser powder bed fusion. This report will present data from parts manufactured by these sinter-based AM methods from stainless steels. Although the study summarizes stainless steels, the results are directly applicable to parts produced from precious metals.
Dr. Joseph Tunick Strauss HJE Company, Inc.
Dr. Strauss is president and engineer of HJE Company, Inc. He holds a PhD in materials engineering from Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute. He has authored more than 50 published works. He organized and co-chaired the Additive Manufacturing Powder Metallurgy Conference (AMPM) in 2014/2015 and again in 2020. He is a member of the Technical Committee of the Metal Powders Industries Federation (MPIF); the Minerals, Metals and Materials Society (TMS) Committee on Powder Materials; the ASTM Committee B09 on Metal Powders and Metal Powder Products and the ASTM Committee F42 on Additive Manufacturing Technologies. Joe teaches additive manufacturing in the annual MPIF PM Short Course and co-presents a tutorial on additive manufacturing at the annual MPIF PowderMet Conference. He was chosen to write the chapter on MIM of Precious Metals for the Handbook of Metal Injection Molding and the chapter of Additive Manufacturing of Precous Metals for the ASM Handbook on Additive Manufacturing. He received the Distinguished Service Award by the Metal Powder Industries Federation and was awarded a Fellow of the American Powder Metallurgy Institute. Joe has also received the Santa Fe Symposium® Ambassador Award and is a two-time recipient of the Collaborative Research and Applied Engineering Awards.
STUDY OF THE SURFACE FINISH AND GEOMETRIC TOLERANCE ATTAINABLE BY SINTER-BASED AM TECHNOLOGIES
The surface finish and geometric tolerance of a part are greatly affected by the manufacturing process and both of these attributes are of primary importance to jewelry manufacturing. Sinter-based additive manufacturing (AM) methods such as binder-jetting (BJT), material extrusion (MEX), material jetting (MJT), and vat photopolymerization (VPP) are of interest to jewelry manufacturing as they may have the potential to produce better surface finishes and tolerances than parts produced by laser powder bed fusion. This report will present data from parts manufactured by these sinter-based AM methods from stainless steels. Although the study summarizes stainless steels, the results are directly applicable to parts produced from precious metals.
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TRACEABLE, QR-CODED SECURITY FOR PRECIOUS GEMS
Seculuxe is an innovative solution that provides smart, Nano scale, security and traceability for precious gemstones. It is a disruptive new technological solution that will change the way gemstones can be secured and embedded with immutable traceability. This technology enables the secure traceability of any gemstones by marking it with a unique QR code. The technology utilises a low power Ultra-Nano laser marking system married to the Seculuxe hardware and bespoke programming. With this it is now possible to engrave gemstones externally, and internally, with a high resolution, Nano scale QR code invisible to the human eye. This QR code has a much higher fidelity at a much smaller scale than that currently achieved with existing laser marking systems. This novel, super-lens, technology will achieve superior resolution laser engraving, at a Nano scale which renders it ideal for engraving Diamonds and other gemstones. This Nano scale marking ability is also paired with a secure digitized ledger that is then authenticated on the Blockchain. The technology required to locate and microscopically read this QR code has also been developed and will be discussed. We shall also give a short update on progress on last year’s paper, The Tui-Tech Project.
Rhys Wilson Diamond Centre Wales
*Co-presented with Kelvin James of Diamond Centre Wales
Rhys Wilson is Head of Research and Development for the Diamond Centre Wales and bespoke Software Developer, with an MSc in Industry 4.0 advanced manufacturing technologies and a BSc (Hons) Computer Applications Development with over 5 years developing bespoke software solutions using AR, VR and Al. He develops custom databases with Blockchain authentication tools, creating immutable traceability and security. Rhys is also currently working towards developing an interactive suite to streamline the creation and design process of bespoke manufactured pieces utilizing the latest augmented reality and artificial intelligence techniques.
TRACEABLE, QR-CODED SECURITY FOR PRECIOUS GEMS
Seculuxe is an innovative solution that provides smart, Nano scale, security and traceability for precious gemstones. It is a disruptive new technological solution that will change the way gemstones can be secured and embedded with immutable traceability. This technology enables the secure traceability of any gemstones by marking it with a unique QR code. The technology utilises a low power Ultra-Nano laser marking system married to the Seculuxe hardware and bespoke programming. With this it is now possible to engrave gemstones externally, and internally, with a high resolution, Nano scale QR code invisible to the human eye. This QR code has a much higher fidelity at a much smaller scale than that currently achieved with existing laser marking systems. This novel, super-lens, technology will achieve superior resolution laser engraving, at a Nano scale which renders it ideal for engraving Diamonds and other gemstones. This Nano scale marking ability is also paired with a secure digitized ledger that is then authenticated on the Blockchain. The technology required to locate and microscopically read this QR code has also been developed and will be discussed. We shall also give a short update on progress on last year’s paper, The Tui-Tech Project.
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A PARADIGM SHIFT OF UNIVERSITY-INDUSTRY COLLABORATION: A TRANSITION TO AN INNOVATION ECOSYSTEM IN THE JEWELRY INDUSTRY
This paper illustrates the technology transfer process in the jewelry industry, emphasizing the role of universities in driving innovation from academia to industry. Guided by the triple helix model, the methods include building human competency, standardizing manufacturing, and establishing innovation-driven enterprises. Key innovations, such as a vendor collaboration model, a niello bar pilot plant, anti-tarnish alloys, and a traceability platform, are analyzed with a focus on organizational strategy and structure for successful innovation transfer.
The study also examines the development of educational programs that enhance student performance and faculty capabilities to meet industry needs. These initiatives strengthen the university's role in shaping an innovation ecosystem by preparing students and faculty for the challenges of the jewelry sector. The paper concludes with managerial and research implications, showcasing how program development, student outcomes, and faculty performance drive the university's role in shaping an innovation ecosystem within the jewelry industry.
Dr. Kageeporn Wongpreedee College of Creative Industry, Srinakharinwirot University
Dr. Kageeporn Wongpreedee is an expert in jewelry production, metallurgy, and innovation management, holding a Ph.D. in Materials Science and Engineering from Iowa State University, USA. Early in her career, her research focused on metallurgy for the jewelry industry, and she has since shifted towards innovation management in manufacturing and quality education. She holds patents and has authored scholarly publications and technical presentations. At the Jewelry Symposium, she will share insights on innovation in jewelry manufacturing, drawing from her extensive research and industry experience.
A PARADIGM SHIFT OF UNIVERSITY-INDUSTRY COLLABORATION: A TRANSITION TO AN INNOVATION ECOSYSTEM IN THE JEWELRY INDUSTRY
This paper illustrates the technology transfer process in the jewelry industry, emphasizing the role of universities in driving innovation from academia to industry. Guided by the triple helix model, the methods include building human competency, standardizing manufacturing, and establishing innovation-driven enterprises. Key innovations, such as a vendor collaboration model, a niello bar pilot plant, anti-tarnish alloys, and a traceability platform, are analyzed with a focus on organizational strategy and structure for successful innovation transfer.
The study also examines the development of educational programs that enhance student performance and faculty capabilities to meet industry needs. These initiatives strengthen the university's role in shaping an innovation ecosystem by preparing students and faculty for the challenges of the jewelry sector. The paper concludes with managerial and research implications, showcasing how program development, student outcomes, and faculty performance drive the university's role in shaping an innovation ecosystem within the jewelry industry.