2026 Speakers & Topics
List of Services
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PLATINUM BEFORE PARIS: UNEARTHING A GLOBAL HISTORY FROM PRE-COLUMBIAN INNOVATION TO EUROPEAN OPULENCE
Long before platinum adorned Belle Époque tiaras, it was worked by the La Tolita–Tumaco culture (c. 600 BCE–400 CE) in what is now Colombia and Ecuador. These artisans pioneered sintering techniques—compressing platinum powder with gold to form ritual ornaments placed in elite burials. Their achievements represent the world’s earliest known platinum metallurgy. In the 18th century, Spanish miners in Colombia’s Chocó region rediscovered the metal while panning for gold, dismissing it as a nuisance. However, samples still reached Europe, where French scientists and court jewelers marveled at its whiteness, weight, and durability. Platinum remained largely impractical until William Hyde Wollaston’s early-19th-century refining breakthroughs. By the early 20th century, platinum had become the metal of choice for elite houses like Cartier, Fabergé, and Tiffany & Co., who embraced its strength and purity for diamond settings and Art Deco design. In this paper, I will show how platinum’s resistance to manipulation transformed into the ultimate badge of luxury.
Michael Binnion Tiffany & Co. - USA
Bio coming soon
PLATINUM BEFORE PARIS: UNEARTHING A GLOBAL HISTORY FROM PRE-COLUMBIAN INNOVATION TO EUROPEAN OPULENCE
Long before platinum adorned Belle Époque tiaras, it was worked by the La Tolita–Tumaco culture (c. 600 BCE–400 CE) in what is now Colombia and Ecuador. These artisans pioneered sintering techniques—compressing platinum powder with gold to form ritual ornaments placed in elite burials. Their achievements represent the world’s earliest known platinum metallurgy. In the 18th century, Spanish miners in Colombia’s Chocó region rediscovered the metal while panning for gold, dismissing it as a nuisance. However, samples still reached Europe, where French scientists and court jewelers marveled at its whiteness, weight, and durability. Platinum remained largely impractical until William Hyde Wollaston’s early-19th-century refining breakthroughs. By the early 20th century, platinum had become the metal of choice for elite houses like Cartier, Fabergé, and Tiffany & Co., who embraced its strength and purity for diamond settings and Art Deco design. In this paper, I will show how platinum’s resistance to manipulation transformed into the ultimate badge of luxury.
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APPLICATION OF HIGH-THROUGHPUT DIFFUSION SCREENING AS AN EXPLORATORY APPROACH TO DISCOVER NOVEL COLORED PLATINUM ALLOYS
The study presents a high-throughput experimental method to accelerate the discovery of novel colored platinum alloys for jewelry applications. Building on promising compositions from literature, diffusion couples were produced by hot pressing dissimilar alloy components to create compositional gradients. The aim was to evaluate the color appearance of individual diffusion zones and identify promising compositions for further development. These candidates were then scaled up through melting and casting under controlled conditions to produce bulk samples suitable for jewelry applications. Visual observations were complemented by detailed microstructural characterization using SEM, EDS, and light microscopy, providing insights into the relationships between composition, microstructure, and color formation. Colorimetric analysis followed standardized protocols to ensure reliable and comparable results. This transition from micro-scale screening to melt metallurgical processing should confirm the practical viability of the developed methodology for alloy selection and validation.
Florian Bulling fem Research Institute Precious Metals + Metals Chemistry - Germany
Florian Bulling is Head of the Physical Metallurgy Department at fem. He studied Material Science at the University of Aalen, Germany, until 2017 and then he started working at fem research Institute, Germany, as a scientific employee. He’s managing research projects in the department of physical metallurgy and is the person in charge of the casting laboratory at fem. His research topics are investment casting of highly reactive alloys, alloy development and ceramic mold production by additive manufacturing and by slurry fabrication.
APPLICATION OF HIGH-THROUGHPUT DIFFUSION SCREENING AS AN EXPLORATORY APPROACH TO DISCOVER NOVEL COLORED PLATINUM ALLOYS
The study presents a high-throughput experimental method to accelerate the discovery of novel colored platinum alloys for jewelry applications. Building on promising compositions from literature, diffusion couples were produced by hot pressing dissimilar alloy components to create compositional gradients. The aim was to evaluate the color appearance of individual diffusion zones and identify promising compositions for further development. These candidates were then scaled up through melting and casting under controlled conditions to produce bulk samples suitable for jewelry applications. Visual observations were complemented by detailed microstructural characterization using SEM, EDS, and light microscopy, providing insights into the relationships between composition, microstructure, and color formation. Colorimetric analysis followed standardized protocols to ensure reliable and comparable results. This transition from micro-scale screening to melt metallurgical processing should confirm the practical viability of the developed methodology for alloy selection and validation.
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BASIC METALLURGY OF THE PRECIOUS METALS – PART IV: DEFORMATION PROCESSING AND HEAT TREATMENT
The aim of this series of ‘Basic Metallurgy’ presentations is to help jewelers better understand the science and technology that underpins the manufacture of jewelry in their industry. This is important if they are to produce good product efficiently and avoid defects and other problems that impact quality, time taken and especially costs. In Part I, we looked at how alloying affects the properties of the jewelry precious metals and the influence of working and annealing on these properties. In Part II, the importance of alloy microstructure, particularly grain size, and the way casting, working and thermal treatments can influence it was discussed. Last year, in Part III, we looked at some of the problems that can befall us when making jewelry, focusing on cracking and other defects and the causes that lead to their occurrence. In Part IV, the focus is on mechanical deformation processing, in particular the difference between hot and cold working, and the various heat treatments that we use and their effect on microstructure and properties. Heat treatment is a general term used to describe a range of thermal processes designed to manipulate properties of alloys to meet requirements. Annealing of alloys is undertaken to soften cold-worked material to enable further working without cracking or fracture. But other types of annealing are also carried out, for example, to stress relieve alloy items to prevent stress corrosion cracking or to age-harden them. This presentation reviews the heat treatments used in the jewelry industry and explains the underlying principles involved.
Dr. Christopher W. Corti COReGOLD Technology Consultancy - UK
Dr. Corti holds a Ph.D. in metallurgy from the University of Surrey (UK) and is the managing director of COReGOLD Technology Consultancy. He has more than 45 years of experience in the precious metals industry, initially with Johnson Matthey at their Research Centre. He worked for the World Gold Council from 1994 to 2004 and served as a consultant there until 2009. Chris edited Gold Technology, Gold Bulletin and the series of World Gold Council handbooks/manuals. He is currently a consultant for the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths. Dr. Corti presented at the Santa Fe Symposium® for 24 years and is a recipient of the Santa Fe Symposium Research, Technology, Ambassador and Lifetime Achievement Awards.
BASIC METALLURGY OF THE PRECIOUS METALS – PART IV: DEFORMATION PROCESSING AND HEAT TREATMENT
The aim of this series of ‘Basic Metallurgy’ presentations is to help jewelers better understand the science and technology that underpins the manufacture of jewelry in their industry. This is important if they are to produce good product efficiently and avoid defects and other problems that impact quality, time taken and especially costs. In Part I, we looked at how alloying affects the properties of the jewelry precious metals and the influence of working and annealing on these properties. In Part II, the importance of alloy microstructure, particularly grain size, and the way casting, working and thermal treatments can influence it was discussed. Last year, in Part III, we looked at some of the problems that can befall us when making jewelry, focusing on cracking and other defects and the causes that lead to their occurrence. In Part IV, the focus is on mechanical deformation processing, in particular the difference between hot and cold working, and the various heat treatments that we use and their effect on microstructure and properties. Heat treatment is a general term used to describe a range of thermal processes designed to manipulate properties of alloys to meet requirements. Annealing of alloys is undertaken to soften cold-worked material to enable further working without cracking or fracture. But other types of annealing are also carried out, for example, to stress relieve alloy items to prevent stress corrosion cracking or to age-harden them. This presentation reviews the heat treatments used in the jewelry industry and explains the underlying principles involved.
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JEWELRY PRODUCTION BY BINDER JETTING ADDITIVE MANUFACTURING: FROM LABORATORY TESTS TO FULL-SCALE PRODUCTION
The presentation represents the third chapter in a series of memories dedicated to Binder Jetting Technology and follows up with the works presented at TJS is 2023 and 2024. Here there will be a detailed description of case studies related to different kinds of objects with particular attention to design and layout improvement for printing and sintering in BJT, and to production process optimization in regards to enlargement of batch size. Cost/time-to-market evaluations will also be considered in the presentation.
Andrea Friso Legor Group S.p.A - Italy
Andrea Friso graduated in Materials Engineering from the University of Padua, Italy, and has more than two decades of experience in the precious metal metallurgy sector. He holds the position of R&D and Product Manager for the metallurgy division of Legor Group S.p.A. During his career, Andrea developed a deep expertise in the jewelry manufacturing processes, coordinating all the phases of technical product manage-ment, from conception to market release. His technical and strategic contribution let Legor to become an innovative leader in this industry. Since 2006, Andrea has been a member of the Jewelry Technology Forum’s Scientific Committee and, more recently, of The Vicenza Symposium, an event that aims to become a reference platform for in-novation and technological development in the jewelry and fashion industry.
JEWELRY PRODUCTION BY BINDER JETTING ADDITIVE MANUFACTURING: FROM LABORATORY TESTS TO FULL-SCALE PRODUCTION
The presentation represents the third chapter in a series of memories dedicated to Binder Jetting Technology and follows up with the works presented at TJS is 2023 and 2024. Here there will be a detailed description of case studies related to different kinds of objects with particular attention to design and layout improvement for printing and sintering in BJT, and to production process optimization in regards to enlargement of batch size. Cost/time-to-market evaluations will also be considered in the presentation.
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REPOSITIONING PLATINUM IN FINE JEWELRY MANUFACTURING: METALLURGICAL, PROCESS AND ECONOMIC BENCHMARKING OF ADDITIVE MANUFACTURING VS. TRADITIONAL TECHNIQUES
In the current economic climate, platinum is regaining attention in fine jewellery due to the rising cost of gold and increasing demand for distinctive materials. Historically underused because of its casting difficulties, platinum is now being reconsidered by luxury brands. This study explores the use of Laser Powder Bed Fusion (L-PBF) as a viable alternative for platinum jewellery manufacturing. Several platinum-based alloys are analysed, considering powder morphology, flowability, and density, and how these influence printability, mechanical properties, and surface quality. A comparison with traditional investment casting is presented, focusing on defect rates, post-processing needs, reproducibility, and time-to-market. L-PBF’s advantages—such as geometric freedom, the ability to create lightweight monolithic designs, and potential for mass customisation—are highlighted as especially beneficial for platinum. The paper identifies the break-even point where additive manufacturing becomes not just viable but advantageous, offering a path to wider adoption of platinum in jewellery, with benefits in design flexibility and sustainability.
Matteo Giantin Progold S.p.A. - Italy
Bio coming soon
REPOSITIONING PLATINUM IN FINE JEWELRY MANUFACTURING: METALLURGICAL, PROCESS AND ECONOMIC BENCHMARKING OF ADDITIVE MANUFACTURING VS. TRADITIONAL TECHNIQUES
In the current economic climate, platinum is regaining attention in fine jewellery due to the rising cost of gold and increasing demand for distinctive materials. Historically underused because of its casting difficulties, platinum is now being reconsidered by luxury brands. This study explores the use of Laser Powder Bed Fusion (L-PBF) as a viable alternative for platinum jewellery manufacturing. Several platinum-based alloys are analysed, considering powder morphology, flowability, and density, and how these influence printability, mechanical properties, and surface quality. A comparison with traditional investment casting is presented, focusing on defect rates, post-processing needs, reproducibility, and time-to-market. L-PBF’s advantages—such as geometric freedom, the ability to create lightweight monolithic designs, and potential for mass customisation—are highlighted as especially beneficial for platinum. The paper identifies the break-even point where additive manufacturing becomes not just viable but advantageous, offering a path to wider adoption of platinum in jewellery, with benefits in design flexibility and sustainability.
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THE TRANSFORMATION OF DIAMOND CUT QUALITY GRADING: WHERE ARE WE NOW
The cut quality of a diamond profoundly influences its allure, playing a crucial role in determining its value. This discussion will delve into the evolution of cut-quality grading and its status. For a long time, it was widely believed that a well-cut diamond maximized the return of light, enhancing its beauty. Proportions were meticulously modeled and calculated to achieve the optimal reflection and refraction of light. However, this assumption was only part of the story. The human visual system perceives things in a complex manner that defies simplistic predictions. The brightness and attractiveness of a diamond depend not only on the quantity of light it returns but also on the intricate contrast patterns created by the virtual facets resulting from the numerous reflections within the diamond. As we will explore, the interplay of these factors has led to a deeper understanding and more nuanced grading of a diamond's cut quality.
Al Gilbertson GIA - USA
Al, currently the Project Manager of Cut-Research at GIA’s Carlsbad Laboratory, was raised in the lapidary (gem-cutting) business and eventually managed a high-end AGS retail jeweler whose shop employed several custom goldsmiths. He later owned a high-end trade shop specializing in several areas, including platinum fabrication and antique jewelry restoration, and owned an appraisal service. Al holds a Graduate Gemologist Diploma (1979) from GIA and an American Gem Society Certified Gemologist title (1979). He is best known for his work in understanding the appearance of gems and diamonds and is the sole inventor of two patents related to cut evaluation, which were acquired by the American Gem Society and form the basis of their ASET technology. GIA hired him in 2000, and he is one of the researchers who created GIA’s cut grading system for the round brilliant. His name is on several of GIA’s patents for the cut grading system, as one of the inventors. Al is the author or co-author of many articles related to cut evaluation. He’s a rigorous and exhaustive researcher, well known for his book American Cut —The First 100 Years, a comprehensive historical record of the development of round, brilliant-cut diamonds from the mid-1800s to the mid-1900s. In recognition of his significant contributions to the gemological field, the Accredited Gemologists Association bestowed the Antonio C. Bonanno Award for Excellence in Gemology in 2017. In 2025, the American Gem Society (AGS) honored Al with its Robert M. Shipley Award– AGS’ highest honor, recognizing a lifetime of excellence in gemological research, education, and service to the industry. Al is one of the leads in GIA’s continued research into creating a cut evaluation system for fancy-shaped diamonds and was approached in 2017 to build a class to teach Jewelry Forensics. He assembled several experts to build the class and is now working on a manual for the class.
THE TRANSFORMATION OF DIAMOND CUT QUALITY GRADING: WHERE ARE WE NOW
The cut quality of a diamond profoundly influences its allure, playing a crucial role in determining its value. This discussion will delve into the evolution of cut-quality grading and its status. For a long time, it was widely believed that a well-cut diamond maximized the return of light, enhancing its beauty. Proportions were meticulously modeled and calculated to achieve the optimal reflection and refraction of light. However, this assumption was only part of the story. The human visual system perceives things in a complex manner that defies simplistic predictions. The brightness and attractiveness of a diamond depend not only on the quantity of light it returns but also on the intricate contrast patterns created by the virtual facets resulting from the numerous reflections within the diamond. As we will explore, the interplay of these factors has led to a deeper understanding and more nuanced grading of a diamond's cut quality.
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SWEEPS 101
This presentation will cover the entire sweeps refining process starting with common areas of precious metals accumulation, packing, shipping, receiving, documentation, burning, milling, sifting, sampling, and assay and lot settlement. The presentation will include a video talking through the live process. The goal is to provide a better understanding of how to best capture small, precious metal scrap, maximize return, and how to properly clean the shop/bench. It will provide a better understanding for customers, jewelers, and craftspeople as to why sweeps lots come with longer lead times and higher payout deductions and will explain the amount of skilled time and labor that goes into processing sweeps.
T.D. Hoover Hoover & Strong - USA
Bio coming soon
SWEEPS 101
This presentation will cover the entire sweeps refining process starting with common areas of precious metals accumulation, packing, shipping, receiving, documentation, burning, milling, sifting, sampling, and assay and lot settlement. The presentation will include a video talking through the live process. The goal is to provide a better understanding of how to best capture small, precious metal scrap, maximize return, and how to properly clean the shop/bench. It will provide a better understanding for customers, jewelers, and craftspeople as to why sweeps lots come with longer lead times and higher payout deductions and will explain the amount of skilled time and labor that goes into processing sweeps.
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NEW APPROACHES TO POLISHING POROUS AND COMPLEX JEWELRY SURFACES: BILBY LAYER FORMATION AS A SOLUTION TO PERSISTENT DEFECTS
This paper addresses some of the most pressing challenges in modern jewelry polishing — including surface finishing of pieces produced by powder metallurgy, 3D metal printing, and direct casting from printed prototypes. These methods frequently result in systematic subsurface porosity, which conventional abrasive polishing fails to fully eliminate. Additionally, the paper explores the problem of polishing complex geometries such as chains, where conventional tools cannot easily access inner contours. We propose a novel method that induces a plastically deformed Bilby layer to seal and mask surface-connected porosity without excessive material loss. By specific surface preparation and further aligning the polishing vector, we achieve a visually flawless finish while preserving geometry and mass.
Sergey Kazantsev ICAMO Technologies - Thailand
Bio coming soon
NEW APPROACHES TO POLISHING POROUS AND COMPLEX JEWELRY SURFACES: BILBY LAYER FORMATION AS A SOLUTION TO PERSISTENT DEFECTS
This paper addresses some of the most pressing challenges in modern jewelry polishing — including surface finishing of pieces produced by powder metallurgy, 3D metal printing, and direct casting from printed prototypes. These methods frequently result in systematic subsurface porosity, which conventional abrasive polishing fails to fully eliminate. Additionally, the paper explores the problem of polishing complex geometries such as chains, where conventional tools cannot easily access inner contours. We propose a novel method that induces a plastically deformed Bilby layer to seal and mask surface-connected porosity without excessive material loss. By specific surface preparation and further aligning the polishing vector, we achieve a visually flawless finish while preserving geometry and mass.
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PREPARATION AND CHARACTERIZATION OF CLOSED-CELL HIGH-KARAT GOLD FOAMS FOR ULTRA-LIGHTWEIGHT JEWELLERY
In this work, we explored the fabrication of high-karat gold foams, specifically 22K (91.7 wt.% Au) and 18K (75 wt.% Au) alloy via liquid metal foaming. The resulting gold foams exhibit a closed-cell structure with gas-filled pores beneath a thick surface skin, offering both ultra-lightweight characteristics and enhanced aesthetic appeal for jewellery applications. This study addresses the key challenges encountered during process development, including the design and customization of foaming equipment, tailoring of alloy compositions to modify surface tension and melt viscosity, selection of suitable gas-releasing agents, and optimization of critical processing parameters such as temperature and time of foaming. The stabilization of the liquid metal foam is found to be highly dependent on the surface tension and viscosity of the molten gold alloy which is altered by suitably alloying and addition of oxides to the molten gold alloy. Additionally, reducing the liquidus temperature enhances compatibility with gas-releasing agents. We successfully achieved foaming of 18K gold, obtaining porosities in the range of 70–80% and densities between 3 and 6 g/cm³.
Vinod Kumar Centre for Pioneering Studies in Gold and Silver, SRM University-AP - India
Bio coming soon
PREPARATION AND CHARACTERIZATION OF CLOSED-CELL HIGH-KARAT GOLD FOAMS FOR ULTRA-LIGHTWEIGHT JEWELLERY
In this work, we explored the fabrication of high-karat gold foams, specifically 22K (91.7 wt.% Au) and 18K (75 wt.% Au) alloy via liquid metal foaming. The resulting gold foams exhibit a closed-cell structure with gas-filled pores beneath a thick surface skin, offering both ultra-lightweight characteristics and enhanced aesthetic appeal for jewellery applications. This study addresses the key challenges encountered during process development, including the design and customization of foaming equipment, tailoring of alloy compositions to modify surface tension and melt viscosity, selection of suitable gas-releasing agents, and optimization of critical processing parameters such as temperature and time of foaming. The stabilization of the liquid metal foam is found to be highly dependent on the surface tension and viscosity of the molten gold alloy which is altered by suitably alloying and addition of oxides to the molten gold alloy. Additionally, reducing the liquidus temperature enhances compatibility with gas-releasing agents. We successfully achieved foaming of 18K gold, obtaining porosities in the range of 70–80% and densities between 3 and 6 g/cm³.
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BEYOND IDEATION: INVESTIGATING MANUFACTURING-READY AI APPLICATIONS IN JEWELRY DESIGN
Building on previous research, this study examines recent developments in generative AI applications for jewelry design. We explore whether AI programs are becoming sufficiently specialized for the jewelry industry to create realistic and manufacturable designs. This paper investigates three key areas: whether AI systems can generate designs with accurate proportions and material properties, the feasibility of converting AI-generated artwork into production-ready 2.5D meshes, and the current capability for creating detailed 3D models from 2D images. If effective, these advances could represent a significant evolution from the purely ideation-focused applications of AI discussed in previous papers. In addition, we will continue exploring the ethical and regulatory landscape surrounding generative AI, maintaining the artistic and creative integrity that defines the industry.
Mike Magee GIA - USA
Bio coming soon
BEYOND IDEATION: INVESTIGATING MANUFACTURING-READY AI APPLICATIONS IN JEWELRY DESIGN
Building on previous research, this study examines recent developments in generative AI applications for jewelry design. We explore whether AI programs are becoming sufficiently specialized for the jewelry industry to create realistic and manufacturable designs. This paper investigates three key areas: whether AI systems can generate designs with accurate proportions and material properties, the feasibility of converting AI-generated artwork into production-ready 2.5D meshes, and the current capability for creating detailed 3D models from 2D images. If effective, these advances could represent a significant evolution from the purely ideation-focused applications of AI discussed in previous papers. In addition, we will continue exploring the ethical and regulatory landscape surrounding generative AI, maintaining the artistic and creative integrity that defines the industry.
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SMALL CHANGE, BIG IMPACT - HOW TO IMPROVE BUSINESS RESULTS THROUGH INCREMENTAL TRANSFORMATION PROJECTS
The adage "good things come in small packages" holds true not only for fine jewelry but also for business transformation. While many organizations pursue large-scale initiatives like enterprise-wide ERP implementations, companies can achieve significant performance improvements through targeted, incremental change. This paper presents real-world case studies from a jewelry manufacturing company where process improvements led to substantial operational gains—without the need for costly IT overhauls. It highlights how strategic, small-scale changes can drive major results, offering practical, cost-effective examples for other manufacturers.
Anne B. Miller Business Transformation Consultant - USA
* Co-presented with co-author Betsy Sullivan of Herff Jones
Anne Miller is a business transformation consultant with over thirty years experience helping companies improve performance through process improvement. Her projects include digital transformation, radical process simplification and organization and culture change across marketing, sales and sales support, supply chain and customer service business functions. Her current engagement is with Herff Jones, an American company that manufactures and sells educational recognition and achievement products and motivational materials. There she is consulting with the Jewelry Division’s customer service team on multiple projects to improve efficiencies and quality. Anne is a Lean Six Sigma Blackbelt with additional skills in Design Thinking and Agile methodologies. She is a recipient of the Santa Fe Symposium® “Business Innovation” award, and recognized three times at IBM with an “Eminence and Excellence in Innovation” award.
SMALL CHANGE, BIG IMPACT - HOW TO IMPROVE BUSINESS RESULTS THROUGH INCREMENTAL TRANSFORMATION PROJECTS
The adage "good things come in small packages" holds true not only for fine jewelry but also for business transformation. While many organizations pursue large-scale initiatives like enterprise-wide ERP implementations, companies can achieve significant performance improvements through targeted, incremental change. This paper presents real-world case studies from a jewelry manufacturing company where process improvements led to substantial operational gains—without the need for costly IT overhauls. It highlights how strategic, small-scale changes can drive major results, offering practical, cost-effective examples for other manufacturers.
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THE RESPONSIBLE SOURCING OF GOLD - IN THEORY AND PRACTICE
An overview of the current status and drivers of change shaping the responsible sourcing of gold. Summarising current practices in the supply chain, contextualized by formal due diligence guidance and frameworks, set against the challenges of informal and opaque market flows, and different perceptions of secondary/recycled supply. Will include insights into global/regional market differences and shifting regulatory demands, and the potential role of technology.
John Mulligan World Gold Council - UK
Bio coming soon
THE RESPONSIBLE SOURCING OF GOLD - IN THEORY AND PRACTICE
An overview of the current status and drivers of change shaping the responsible sourcing of gold. Summarising current practices in the supply chain, contextualized by formal due diligence guidance and frameworks, set against the challenges of informal and opaque market flows, and different perceptions of secondary/recycled supply. Will include insights into global/regional market differences and shifting regulatory demands, and the potential role of technology.
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ENGINEERING FOR ENDURANCE: HOW WEIGHT AND BALANCE IMPACT PIERCED TISSUE HEALTH
Jewelry isn’t just decorative; it interacts with the body in complex ways. Poor weight distribution and imbalance can cause long-term tissue stress, especially in areas like ears and piercings. This paper explores how thoughtful design focused on weight and balance can prevent damage, enhance comfort, and support lasting wear across all jewelry types.
Pablo Perelmuter Association of Professional Piercers - USA
Pablo is originally from Buenos Aires, Argentina where he started his career over 20 years ago. He has worked at top studios across the Bay Area and is recognized as being an industry resource for best practices and environmental standards. Pablo loves custom jewelry design and Ear Curation. Clients often look forward to seeing Pablo's Photoshop skills in action during their appointment. Pablo is an instructor and the Medical Liaison for the Association of Professional Piercers. With a special interest in science and standards, his courses have included topics on building and updating studios to be environmentally safe, autoclave repair and maintenance, and best practices in body piercing. As an educator, Pablo also teaches internationally for many piercing-specific health and safety organizations.
ENGINEERING FOR ENDURANCE: HOW WEIGHT AND BALANCE IMPACT PIERCED TISSUE HEALTH
Jewelry isn’t just decorative; it interacts with the body in complex ways. Poor weight distribution and imbalance can cause long-term tissue stress, especially in areas like ears and piercings. This paper explores how thoughtful design focused on weight and balance can prevent damage, enhance comfort, and support lasting wear across all jewelry types.
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BLENDING GEOMETRIC AND ORGANIC PATTERNS TO CREATE A FLORAL RING
We will see the complete process of creating a ring inspired by a floral design. The design will be a contrast of organic and geometric lines. The ring will be entirely handmade with yellow and white gold, diamonds, and colored sapphires. To begin, we will make some sketches and do some tests to detect possible challenges that may come up during its preparation. Then, we will proceed with the creation of the ring, which includes working and soldering the gold to create the flower and making a geometric branch with multiple stems for the shank of the ring. We will also see how to make gold settings for sapphires and diamonds, set the stones, assemble all the parts, add the finishing touches, and polish and clean the finished ring.
Arturo Sanfelix Jeweler - Spain
Arturo Sanfelix graduated in Fine Arts from the Polytechnic University of Valencia, Spain and with a Degree in Design and Creative Technologies from the University of Applied Sciences Fachhochschule in Mainz, Germany. From his jewelry studio he creates unique pieces for private clients, trying to make jewelry with a unique nature, respecting the classic canons of the traditional craftmanship and with a strong avant-garde spirit. Sanfelix combines innovation and tradition to create unique pieces of the highest quality. His pieces have been recognized in international jewelry competitions such as the Saul Bell Design Award in the United States (2017 winner) and the Milan Jewelry Week in Italy (2022 winner).
BLENDING GEOMETRIC AND ORGANIC PATTERNS TO CREATE A FLORAL RING
We will see the complete process of creating a ring inspired by a floral design. The design will be a contrast of organic and geometric lines. The ring will be entirely handmade with yellow and white gold, diamonds, and colored sapphires. To begin, we will make some sketches and do some tests to detect possible challenges that may come up during its preparation. Then, we will proceed with the creation of the ring, which includes working and soldering the gold to create the flower and making a geometric branch with multiple stems for the shank of the ring. We will also see how to make gold settings for sapphires and diamonds, set the stones, assemble all the parts, add the finishing touches, and polish and clean the finished ring.
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CHARACTERIZATION OF PLATINUM CASTING DEFECTS
The paper gives a comprehensive overview of eight main casting defect types, illustrates them with photos, renderings and microscopy images and provides a number of possible root causes and suggests corrective and preventive actions to consistently achieve high-quality platinum castings. The correct analysis of the actual defect also highlights the importance of a sound knowledge of quality management systems and their application in daily casting operations. In the summary of the paper, “other possible causes” of poor casting results get listed, so that they can get included in the trouble-shooting check list.
Kathrin Schoenke KNS Platinum Solutions Pvt Ltd - India
* Co-presented with co-author Keshab Sengupta of Uni-Design
Ms. Schoenke was schooled and trained in the fields of traditional bench jewellery manufacturing, product design and gemology in Germany and Switzerland and holds a BA degree in product design and a MA degree in metallurgy. During her career, she has worked with some of the most renowned jewelry companies in the world including Tiffany & Co, Cartier (New York) and De Beers (UK). In her role as Global Head of Manufacturing for De Beers she was responsible for a number of high jewelry design commissions, including the creation of the necklace for the famous Millennium Star Diamond. In 2004 she started her own specialty consultancy business, KNS Platinum Solutions, providing the global jewelry manufacturing industry with expertise in platinum manufacturing, high-end jewelry design product development and specialty jewelry materials. She currently operates out of three offices: one in New Jersey (USA), and two in India in Bangalore and Mumbai. Her customer base stretches over four continents with clients in the US, India, Japan and across Europe. Kathrin is also a member of PGI’s expert panel “Platinum ABC” where she shares tips and advice on platinum alloy selection and using the right tools for platinum manufacturing.
CHARACTERIZATION OF PLATINUM CASTING DEFECTS
The paper gives a comprehensive overview of eight main casting defect types, illustrates them with photos, renderings and microscopy images and provides a number of possible root causes and suggests corrective and preventive actions to consistently achieve high-quality platinum castings. The correct analysis of the actual defect also highlights the importance of a sound knowledge of quality management systems and their application in daily casting operations. In the summary of the paper, “other possible causes” of poor casting results get listed, so that they can get included in the trouble-shooting check list.
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PROCESS AUTOMATION IN INVESTMENT CASTING FOR JEWELRY MANUFACTURING
The investment casting process is fundamental in studded jewelry manufacturing, yet its complexity poses significant challenges due to numerous tightly coupled parameters—including burnout and casting temperatures, investment powder-to-water ratios, and additives. Manual oversight often leads to inconsistencies and defects. This paper explores the integration of automation, supported by Industrial Internet of Things (IIOT) technology, across key stages of investment, burnout, casting, and post-casting operations. Innovations include a vacuum-driven investment auto-loading system, precise powder-to-water mixing, and automated selection and dosing of additives. A PLC-based rotary burnout furnace adjusts temperature profiles according to the wax tree type, such as stone-in-place casting or metal casting. An alert system notifies operators of any anomalies. Casting operations are optimized through alloy-specific temperature selection and conveyor-controlled cooling of flasks based on casting alloy. This unified automated system enhances consistency, quality, and efficiency by minimizing human error.
Arun Brakash Selvaraajan Titan Company Ltd - India
Bio coming soon
PROCESS AUTOMATION IN INVESTMENT CASTING FOR JEWELRY MANUFACTURING
The investment casting process is fundamental in studded jewelry manufacturing, yet its complexity poses significant challenges due to numerous tightly coupled parameters—including burnout and casting temperatures, investment powder-to-water ratios, and additives. Manual oversight often leads to inconsistencies and defects. This paper explores the integration of automation, supported by Industrial Internet of Things (IIOT) technology, across key stages of investment, burnout, casting, and post-casting operations. Innovations include a vacuum-driven investment auto-loading system, precise powder-to-water mixing, and automated selection and dosing of additives. A PLC-based rotary burnout furnace adjusts temperature profiles according to the wax tree type, such as stone-in-place casting or metal casting. An alert system notifies operators of any anomalies. Casting operations are optimized through alloy-specific temperature selection and conveyor-controlled cooling of flasks based on casting alloy. This unified automated system enhances consistency, quality, and efficiency by minimizing human error.
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THE EFFECT OF QUENCH TIME ON AS-CAST PROPERTIES OF WHITE GOLD
In materials science, the solidification process following metal casting is a critical factor in achieving the desired properties in the final product. The solidification rate influences atomic arrangement in the solid state, which in turn determines the material’s grain structure. In the jewelry industry, lost-wax casting is commonly followed by quenching, typically using water as the cooling medium, to solidify precious metals such as gold and silver. Quench time—the delay between casting and immersion in water—can significantly impact the resulting microstructure. This paper investigates how variations in quench time affect the grain structure and select mechanical properties of 14K and 18K Nickel, as well as palladium white gold.
Meet Shah United Precious Metal Refining, Inc. - USA
Meet Shah is a metallurgist at United PMR for past seven years and a part of the R&D team. His experience covers wide range of areas including materials characterization techniques, welding and has a history of working as a Metallurgical Engineering Intern in a steel making company. Meet holds a master’s degree in Materials Science and Engineering from the University of Texas at Arlington, USA. He has been heavily involved in United’s alloy developing process and known in the industry for helping in troubleshooting defects occur in casting as well as fabrication process.
THE EFFECT OF QUENCH TIME ON AS-CAST PROPERTIES OF WHITE GOLD
In materials science, the solidification process following metal casting is a critical factor in achieving the desired properties in the final product. The solidification rate influences atomic arrangement in the solid state, which in turn determines the material’s grain structure. In the jewelry industry, lost-wax casting is commonly followed by quenching, typically using water as the cooling medium, to solidify precious metals such as gold and silver. Quench time—the delay between casting and immersion in water—can significantly impact the resulting microstructure. This paper investigates how variations in quench time affect the grain structure and select mechanical properties of 14K and 18K Nickel, as well as palladium white gold.
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SILVER TARNISH PROTECTION: STATE OF THE ART AND CASE STUDIES
Silver is prone to oxidation and tarnishing, primarily affecting its aesthetic appeal. This work examines the tarnishing process from a chemical-physical perspective, outlining the reactions involved and the factors that accelerate its formation, along with common removal techniques. The second part focuses on current anti-tarnish technologies and the specific tests used to assess their effectiveness. A case study is presented to illustrate how different analytical methods can vary in their ability to distinguish the actual tarnish resistance of products within the same technological category. The aim is to provide an updated overview of available solutions and to emphasize the importance of advanced testing methodologies in supporting the development of more effective and reliable silver protection technologies.
Fulvio Sinisi Legor Group - Italy
Bio coming soon
SILVER TARNISH PROTECTION: STATE OF THE ART AND CASE STUDIES
Silver is prone to oxidation and tarnishing, primarily affecting its aesthetic appeal. This work examines the tarnishing process from a chemical-physical perspective, outlining the reactions involved and the factors that accelerate its formation, along with common removal techniques. The second part focuses on current anti-tarnish technologies and the specific tests used to assess their effectiveness. A case study is presented to illustrate how different analytical methods can vary in their ability to distinguish the actual tarnish resistance of products within the same technological category. The aim is to provide an updated overview of available solutions and to emphasize the importance of advanced testing methodologies in supporting the development of more effective and reliable silver protection technologies.
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POWDER METALLURGY: DEBINDING AND SINTERING THEORY AND THEIR APPLICATION TO PRECIOUS METAL ALLOYS
The use of powder metallurgy technologies such as metal injection molding and sinter-based additive manufacturing in jewelry manufacturing is growing. These technologies use an organic binder as a temporary agent to enable the powder to be formed into a jewelry piece. The removal of this binder and the subsequent sintering of the powder are central to the ability of these technologies to achieve a high level of metallurgical integrity with respect to density, strength, and ductility. This paper will present the theories behind debinding and sintering and show how they apply to the special case of precious metals, specifically silver and gold based alloys.
Dr. Joseph Tunick Strauss HJE Company, Inc. - USA
Dr. Strauss is president and engineer of HJE Company, Inc. He holds a PhD in materials engineering from Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute. He has authored more than 50 published works. He organized and co-chaired the Additive Manufacturing Powder Metallurgy Conference (AMPM) in 2014/2015 and again in 2020. He is a member of the Technical Committee of the Metal Powders Industries Federation (MPIF); the Minerals, Metals and Materials Society (TMS) Committee on Powder Materials; the ASTM Committee B09 on Metal Powders and Metal Powder Products and the ASTM Committee F42 on Additive Manufacturing Technologies. Joe teaches additive manufacturing in the annual MPIF PM Short Course and co-presents a tutorial on additive manufacturing at the annual MPIF PowderMet Conference. He was chosen to write the chapter on MIM of Precious Metals for the Handbook of Metal Injection Molding and the chapter of Additive Manufacturing of Precous Metals for the ASM Handbook on Additive Manufacturing. He received the Distinguished Service Award by the Metal Powder Industries Federation and was awarded a Fellow of the American Powder Metallurgy Institute. Joe has also received the Santa Fe Symposium® Ambassador Award and is a two-time recipient of the Collaborative Research and Applied Engineering Awards.
POWDER METALLURGY: DEBINDING AND SINTERING THEORY AND THEIR APPLICATION TO PRECIOUS METAL ALLOYS
The use of powder metallurgy technologies such as metal injection molding and sinter-based additive manufacturing in jewelry manufacturing is growing. These technologies use an organic binder as a temporary agent to enable the powder to be formed into a jewelry piece. The removal of this binder and the subsequent sintering of the powder are central to the ability of these technologies to achieve a high level of metallurgical integrity with respect to density, strength, and ductility. This paper will present the theories behind debinding and sintering and show how they apply to the special case of precious metals, specifically silver and gold based alloys.
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THE FTC GUIDES: THE JEWELY GUIDES, THE GREEN GUIDES, AND THE FUTURE OF SUSTAINABILITY CLAIMS IN THE JEWELRY INDUSTRY
This paper will discuss the Federal Trade Commission’s (FTC) Jewelry Guides and their impact on the jewelry industry, focusing on the language required for all advertising and labeling, and the disclosures necessary to promote transparency and protect consumers. It will also discuss the FTC’s Green Guides, intended to help businesses avoid making deceptive environmental claims, and the current state of the FTC’s proposed 2022 Green Guides revisions. The paper will explore how the Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC) actively responded to the FTC’s call for public comment to the proposed changes, highlighting JVC’s industry outreach, the feedback received, and the 16-page brief JVC submitted to the FTC underscoring the specific and unique needs of the jewelry industry, particularly as they pertain to sustainability and environmental claims. This 16-page brief will be included in the paper.
Sally Winters Jewelers Vigilance Committee - USA
*Co-presented with co-author Rachel Chalik of JVC
Bio coming soon
THE FTC GUIDES: THE JEWELY GUIDES, THE GREEN GUIDES, AND THE FUTURE OF SUSTAINABILITY CLAIMS IN THE JEWELRY INDUSTRY
This paper will discuss the Federal Trade Commission’s (FTC) Jewelry Guides and their impact on the jewelry industry, focusing on the language required for all advertising and labeling, and the disclosures necessary to promote transparency and protect consumers. It will also discuss the FTC’s Green Guides, intended to help businesses avoid making deceptive environmental claims, and the current state of the FTC’s proposed 2022 Green Guides revisions. The paper will explore how the Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC) actively responded to the FTC’s call for public comment to the proposed changes, highlighting JVC’s industry outreach, the feedback received, and the 16-page brief JVC submitted to the FTC underscoring the specific and unique needs of the jewelry industry, particularly as they pertain to sustainability and environmental claims. This 16-page brief will be included in the paper.
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A PARADIGM SHIFT OF UNIVERSITY-INDUSTRY COLLABORATION: A TRANSITION TO AN INNOVATION ECOSYSTEM IN THE JEWELRY INDUSTRY
This paper illustrates the technology transfer process in the jewelry industry, emphasizing the role of universities in driving innovation from academia to industry. Guided by the triple helix model, the methods include building human competency, standardizing manufacturing, and establishing innovation-driven enterprises. Key innovations, such as a vendor collaboration model, a niello bar pilot plant, anti-tarnish alloys, and a traceability platform, are analyzed with a focus on organizational strategy and structure for successful innovation transfer.
The study also examines the development of educational programs that enhance student performance and faculty capabilities to meet industry needs. These initiatives strengthen the university's role in shaping an innovation ecosystem by preparing students and faculty for the challenges of the jewelry sector. The paper concludes with managerial and research implications, showcasing how program development, student outcomes, and faculty performance drive the university's role in shaping an innovation ecosystem within the jewelry industry.
Dr. Kageeporn Wongpreedee College of Creative Industry, Srinakharinwirot University - Thailand
Dr. Kageeporn Wongpreedee is an expert in jewelry production, metallurgy, and innovation management, holding a Ph.D. in Materials Science and Engineering from Iowa State University, USA. Early in her career, her research focused on metallurgy for the jewelry industry, and she has since shifted towards innovation management in manufacturing and quality education. She holds patents and has authored scholarly publications and technical presentations. At the Jewelry Symposium, she will share insights on innovation in jewelry manufacturing, drawing from her extensive research and industry experience.
A PARADIGM SHIFT OF UNIVERSITY-INDUSTRY COLLABORATION: A TRANSITION TO AN INNOVATION ECOSYSTEM IN THE JEWELRY INDUSTRY
This paper illustrates the technology transfer process in the jewelry industry, emphasizing the role of universities in driving innovation from academia to industry. Guided by the triple helix model, the methods include building human competency, standardizing manufacturing, and establishing innovation-driven enterprises. Key innovations, such as a vendor collaboration model, a niello bar pilot plant, anti-tarnish alloys, and a traceability platform, are analyzed with a focus on organizational strategy and structure for successful innovation transfer.
The study also examines the development of educational programs that enhance student performance and faculty capabilities to meet industry needs. These initiatives strengthen the university's role in shaping an innovation ecosystem by preparing students and faculty for the challenges of the jewelry sector. The paper concludes with managerial and research implications, showcasing how program development, student outcomes, and faculty performance drive the university's role in shaping an innovation ecosystem within the jewelry industry.