2024 Speakers & Topics
List of Services
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JEWELRY PRODUCTION BY BINDER JETTING ADDITIVE MANUFACTURING: OUR EXPERIENCE ON PLATINUM 950 AND SILVER 925
The presentation is focused on introducing Binder Jet technology in its applications for jewelry making and showing results from one year of use of 3D binder jet printers at our laboratories in Bressanvido, Italy. Binder jetting is still not well known in the jewelry sector, although remarkably known in other industries. It has a remarkably different concept of work from Selective Laser Melting, and our practical experiences over one year of testing and production using it will be shared during the presentation.
Andrea Friso Legor Group S.p.A. - Italy
Andrea Friso is the R&D manager for the Master Alloy unit at Legor Group SpA (Italy). He has been in the business of precious alloys metallurgy since 2004 when he joined Legor. With a strong technical background on metallurgy and jewellery production processes, his main activity is the coordination of conception, testing and release to market of new alloy products and projects through the help of his R&D team and the collaboration with sales and operations teams.
JEWELRY PRODUCTION BY BINDER JETTING ADDITIVE MANUFACTURING: OUR EXPERIENCE ON PLATINUM 950 AND SILVER 925
The presentation is focused on introducing Binder Jet technology in its applications for jewelry making and showing results from one year of use of 3D binder jet printers at our laboratories in Bressanvido, Italy. Binder jetting is still not well known in the jewelry sector, although remarkably known in other industries. It has a remarkably different concept of work from Selective Laser Melting, and our practical experiences over one year of testing and production using it will be shared during the presentation.
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TITANIUM AND ALUMINUM: HANDLING, WELDING, AND ANODIZING IN THE PRODUCTION OF HANDMADE JEWELRY
In this speech, divided into three blocks, we will address:
• Characteristics and manipulation. Origin of these metals and main qualities (malleability, ductility, toughness, mechanical resistance and weight), their different alloys and benefits of each of them. The way in which they must be worked, and the processes to which they react in a remarkably different way than the precious metals traditionally used in jewelry.
• Welding. The different welding methods most suitable for both metals, advantages, and disadvantages of each type of technology. Preparation and cleaning of surfaces to be welded. Welding, finishing and preparation for anodizing.
• Anodizing. Differences in the anodizing of both metals and their different processes. Qualities of each one, colors, range of tones and durability.
Arturo Sanfelix Jeweler
Arturo Sanfelix graduated in Fine Arts from the Polytechnic University of Valencia, Spain and with a Degree in Design and Creative Technologies from the University of Applied Sciences Fachhochschule in Mainz, Germany. From his jewelry studio he creates unique pieces for private clients, trying to make jewelry with a unique nature, respecting the classic canons of the traditional craftmanship and with a strong avant-garde spirit. Sanfelix combines innovation and tradition to create unique pieces of the highest quality. His pieces have been recognized in international jewelry competitions such as the Saul Bell Design Award in the United States (2017 winner) and the Milan Jewelry Week in Italy (2022 winner).
TITANIUM AND ALUMINUM: HANDLING, WELDING, AND ANODIZING IN THE PRODUCTION OF HANDMADE JEWELRY
In this speech, divided into three blocks, we will address:
• Characteristics and manipulation. Origin of these metals and main qualities (malleability, ductility, toughness, mechanical resistance and weight), their different alloys and benefits of each of them. The way in which they must be worked, and the processes to which they react in a remarkably different way than the precious metals traditionally used in jewelry.
• Welding. The different welding methods most suitable for both metals, advantages, and disadvantages of each type of technology. Preparation and cleaning of surfaces to be welded. Welding, finishing and preparation for anodizing.
• Anodizing. Differences in the anodizing of both metals and their different processes. Qualities of each one, colors, range of tones and durability.
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LEVERAGING ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE AND BIG DATA IN PREDICTIVE MODELING OF PHYSICAL, CHEMICAL, AND MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF GOLD AND SILVER ALLOYS FOR JEWELRY MANUFACTURING
In the field of jewelry manufacturing, the traditional characterization of gold and silver alloys relies heavily on extensive physical, chemical, mechanical, and technological testing. This research advances the state of the art by introducing an innovative approach using Artificial Intelligence (AI) and Big Data. Leveraging these technologies, we create predictive models for untested alloy compositions, forecasting critical properties such as melting range, color, hardness, among others. This technique significantly reduces the need for conventional testing, enhancing both accuracy and efficiency. The methodology encompasses data analysis, AI-driven predictions, and validation, focusing on numerous essential attributes in alloy design. Our work represents a pioneering contribution to the industry, opening new avenues for material understanding and streamlined production.
Dr. Valentina Allodi Progold S.p.A.
Valentina Allodi is the R&D Manager at Progold S.p.A in Trissino, Italy. She holds a Master’s degree in Materials Science from the University of Parma and a PhD in Nanotechnology from the University of Verona. In 2011 she obtained a research fellowship at the University of Verona and was a researcher there until 2015. In the same year she started her collaboration with Progold. From the beginning, her work has been focused on innovation and research in the field of precious metal additive manufacturing, and from 2020 to 2022 she has been CTO of Progol3D, Progold's business unit for additive manufacturing. Since the beginning of 2023 she has held the current position of R&D Manager at Progold. Valentina has contributed to many of Progold's recent presentations at SFS, both in planning, research, and writing.
LEVERAGING ARTIFICIAL INTELLIGENCE AND BIG DATA IN PREDICTIVE MODELING OF PHYSICAL, CHEMICAL, AND MECHANICAL PROPERTIES OF GOLD AND SILVER ALLOYS FOR JEWELRY MANUFACTURING
In the field of jewelry manufacturing, the traditional characterization of gold and silver alloys relies heavily on extensive physical, chemical, mechanical, and technological testing. This research advances the state of the art by introducing an innovative approach using Artificial Intelligence (AI) and Big Data. Leveraging these technologies, we create predictive models for untested alloy compositions, forecasting critical properties such as melting range, color, hardness, among others. This technique significantly reduces the need for conventional testing, enhancing both accuracy and efficiency. The methodology encompasses data analysis, AI-driven predictions, and validation, focusing on numerous essential attributes in alloy design. Our work represents a pioneering contribution to the industry, opening new avenues for material understanding and streamlined production.
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THE MAKING OF PRESSED METAL MOLDS FOR PLASTIC AND WAX INJECTION
The content will cover applications and comparisons of pressed metal molds to machined metal molds for plastic and wax injected parts for casting. I will give instruction on how to make various molds from flat pendent and emblematic pieces to complex rings with undercuts. Thin wall castings can be achieved due to the ability of using high pressure plastic injectors. I will cover hybrid molds using vulcanized rubber and low melt metal that I developed and consider new hybrid options using 3D printing resins. A list of equipment and supplies will be covered.
John Berg Consultant
John Berg is an artist who has worked in jewelry, ceramics, and sculpture for 50 years. He grew up in Harvard, Illinois and attended Northern Illinois University Arts Program where he was invited to be an apprentice for his jewelry professor, Lee Peck. In his early twenties he won multiple jewelry competitions in the state of Hawaii and was published in Modern Jeweler Magazine. Since then, he has used his skills and talents working for custom jewelers and major luxury brands and manufacturers. He retired in May of 2022 as VP of Manufacturing Excellence for David Yurman. Making pottery, sculptures, and painting now fills his time, though he still consults for the jewelry industry. John recently started a small studio called Hair of the Dog Ceramics making ceramic and silver jewelry, pottery, and sculptures using a Raku technique with pet hair.
THE MAKING OF PRESSED METAL MOLDS FOR PLASTIC AND WAX INJECTION
The content will cover applications and comparisons of pressed metal molds to machined metal molds for plastic and wax injected parts for casting. I will give instruction on how to make various molds from flat pendent and emblematic pieces to complex rings with undercuts. Thin wall castings can be achieved due to the ability of using high pressure plastic injectors. I will cover hybrid molds using vulcanized rubber and low melt metal that I developed and consider new hybrid options using 3D printing resins. A list of equipment and supplies will be covered.
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GUILLOCHE AND ORNAMENTAL TURNING IN THE MODERN JEWELRY STUDIO
The paper will expose readers to an old technology which is in the midst of a grand revival. Many jewelers and watchmakers around the world are developing new uses and new designs with the help of these machines. New machines are coming on the market to help fill the needs. The paper will cover the most recent advances in the techniques and processes along with examples of finished work.
Phil Poirier Poirier Studio/BDT Mfg
A true “smith” at heart (since his first silversmithing class in high school), Phil is a recognized designer, craftsman, and engineer who has been maneuvering and manipulating metal into jewelry and objets d’art for 51 years. He is a generous teacher who is the product of self-teaching and numerous apprenticeships and knows the value of hands-on learning. Phil Poirier began working with Bonny Doon Engineering, a company that develops and manufactures hydraulic presses and tooling systems for the jewelry industry, in 1995. In 2006 he bought and moved the company to Taos, and in 2020 passed the company to his nephew, Peter Gilroy. Phil is the recipient of the Reyna Award for Jewelry Excellence in 2012 and the Santa Fe Symposium® Ambassador, Jewelry Technology Leader, Outstanding Technical Presentation, and Technical Innovation Awards. He spends his time cutting gems, making jewelry, and living life.
GUILLOCHE AND ORNAMENTAL TURNING IN THE MODERN JEWELRY STUDIO
The paper will expose readers to an old technology which is in the midst of a grand revival. Many jewelers and watchmakers around the world are developing new uses and new designs with the help of these machines. New machines are coming on the market to help fill the needs. The paper will cover the most recent advances in the techniques and processes along with examples of finished work.
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ALLOY DEVELOPMENT STRATEGIES FOR JEWELRY: WHAT CAN WE LEARN FROM OTHER INDUSTRIES
Alloy development plays a crucial role in the jewelry industry, aiming to achieve desired properties such as color, mechanical strength, and corrosion resistance. In this study, we explore the potential benefits of adopting strategies from other industries to enhance the alloy development process in jewelry manufacturing. This interdisciplinary approach integrates thermodynamic simulations and high-throughput screening methods to accelerate the discovery and optimization of alloy compositions. Thermodynamic simulations are employed to predict phase stability, solidification behavior, and alloy properties. By leveraging computational tools, researchers can effectively analyze the effects of different alloying elements on the final material properties, offering insights into the color, mechanical strength, and corrosion resistance of jewelry alloys. Additionally, high-throughput screening methods are adapted to efficiently explore a vast composition space of potential alloy candidates. These screening techniques enable rapid fabrication and evaluation of a large number of alloy samples, allowing researchers to identify promising compositions for further analysis. The findings presented here can pave the way for innovative and sustainable practices in jewelry manufacturing while offering new avenues for exploration and inspiration across various industries.
Florian Bulling fem Research Institute Precious Metals + Metals Chemistry
Florian Bulling studied Material Science at the University of Aalen, Germany, until 2017 and then he started working at fem research Institute, Germany, as a scientific employee. He’s managing research projects in the department of physical metallurgy and is the person in charge of the casting laboratory at fem. His research topics are investment casting of highly reactive alloys, alloy development and ceramic mold production by additive manufacturing and by slurry fabrication.
ALLOY DEVELOPMENT STRATEGIES FOR JEWELRY: WHAT CAN WE LEARN FROM OTHER INDUSTRIES
Alloy development plays a crucial role in the jewelry industry, aiming to achieve desired properties such as color, mechanical strength, and corrosion resistance. In this study, we explore the potential benefits of adopting strategies from other industries to enhance the alloy development process in jewelry manufacturing. This interdisciplinary approach integrates thermodynamic simulations and high-throughput screening methods to accelerate the discovery and optimization of alloy compositions. Thermodynamic simulations are employed to predict phase stability, solidification behavior, and alloy properties. By leveraging computational tools, researchers can effectively analyze the effects of different alloying elements on the final material properties, offering insights into the color, mechanical strength, and corrosion resistance of jewelry alloys. Additionally, high-throughput screening methods are adapted to efficiently explore a vast composition space of potential alloy candidates. These screening techniques enable rapid fabrication and evaluation of a large number of alloy samples, allowing researchers to identify promising compositions for further analysis. The findings presented here can pave the way for innovative and sustainable practices in jewelry manufacturing while offering new avenues for exploration and inspiration across various industries.
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MEASURING BRILLIANCE, THE TUI-TECH PROJECT (THE ULTIMATE IDENTIFIER TECHNOLOGY PROJECT)
Diamond gemstones are commonly known to be described by the 4 C’s, the first 3: Carat, Clarity and Colorall have clearly understood quantitative measures. However, the fourth parameter ’Cut’ is a qualitative value determined by the individual gemstones interaction with light and is graded by a skilled, highly trained Gemmologist. In principle the cut of a diamond is precisely defined by the well-known angles necessary to create total internal reflection of any light entering the gemstone. This geometry will produce the optimum values for the four sub measurements of Cut which are: Brilliance, Fire, Sparkle and Symmetry
However, this precise geometry is regularly altered to maximize carat weight, to remove inclusions to improve clarity and/or adjust the color value. This means that every diamond gemstone is unique and requires individual grading on a Subjective scale. Normally this is done by a skilled gemologist on behalf of an industry governing body such as the GIA.
In this paper you will be introduced to a novel and unique technological solution to accurately and repeatably measure the Brilliance of a gemstone, particularly in a Diamond.
Frank Cooper Consultant
Now retired from his role as a Senior Lecturer at The Birmingham School of Jewellery at Birmingham City University in the UK, Frank finds himself ‘as busy as ever’, though these days not exclusively working on jewellery or educational projects. He divides his time between jewellery related consultancies in the UK and the Middle East and a couple of ‘very special jewellery projects’. Remodelling the garden in his new home and a renewed passion for jigsaws (re-discovered during Covid!) now helps to fill any spare moments when not following his football (soccer) team the mighty West Bromwich Albion! The special projects are UK Government funded, via two Welsh Universities, and the largest Jewellery Manufacturer in Wales, Diamond Centre Wales. Both involve the development of light and laser technologies specially adapted and developed for use in the Gemmological and Jewellery industries where Frank has been able to apply his own special knowledge of the use of advanced digital technologies.
MEASURING BRILLIANCE, THE TUI-TECH PROJECT (THE ULTIMATE IDENTIFIER TECHNOLOGY PROJECT)
Diamond gemstones are commonly known to be described by the 4 C’s, the first 3: Carat, Clarity and Colorall have clearly understood quantitative measures. However, the fourth parameter ’Cut’ is a qualitative value determined by the individual gemstones interaction with light and is graded by a skilled, highly trained Gemmologist. In principle the cut of a diamond is precisely defined by the well-known angles necessary to create total internal reflection of any light entering the gemstone. This geometry will produce the optimum values for the four sub measurements of Cut which are: Brilliance, Fire, Sparkle and Symmetry
However, this precise geometry is regularly altered to maximize carat weight, to remove inclusions to improve clarity and/or adjust the color value. This means that every diamond gemstone is unique and requires individual grading on a Subjective scale. Normally this is done by a skilled gemologist on behalf of an industry governing body such as the GIA.
In this paper you will be introduced to a novel and unique technological solution to accurately and repeatably measure the Brilliance of a gemstone, particularly in a Diamond.
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AN OVERVIEW OF JEWELRY FORENSICS
Many jewelry trade professionals already go through a process to identify, analyze, and assess an item's quality and nature. Is it comprehensive and systematic? GIA provides a framework for building experience and expertise, including guiding you to identify areas where you need to gain more exposure. Many know only certain aspects of manufacturing and can only recognize a narrow range of specific make traces. You may recognize a die-struck jewelry finding (such as a six-prong die-struck head) but not when a mold was used to recast it to make a piece of jewelry. Do you understand why that matters? This short introduction to jewelry forensics overviews the two-and-a-half-day class, identifying hand-fabricated components, cast components, CAD/CAM manufactured components, and cast-in-place gemstones as examples.
Al Gilbertson Gemological Institute of America
Al, currently the Project Manager of Cut-Research at GIA’s Carlsbad Laboratory, was raised in the lapidary business and eventually managed a high-end AGS retail jeweler whose shop employed several custom goldsmiths. He later owned a high-end trade shop specializing in several areas, including platinum fabrication and antique jewelry restoration, and owned an appraisal service servicing over seventy jewelers. He is best known for his work in the understanding of gem and diamond appearance. He is the sole inventor of two patents related to cut evaluation. GIA hired him in 2000 and he is one of GIA’s researchers who created GIA’s cut grading system for the round brilliant. Al is a rigorous and exhaustive researcher, well known for his book American Cut —The First 100 Years, a comprehensive historical record of the development of round, brilliant-cut diamonds from the mid-1800s to the mid-1900s. Al was approached in 2017 to build a class to teach Jewelry Forensics at GIA. He assembled several experts to build the class and is now finishing a manual for the class.
AN OVERVIEW OF JEWELRY FORENSICS
Many jewelry trade professionals already go through a process to identify, analyze, and assess an item's quality and nature. Is it comprehensive and systematic? GIA provides a framework for building experience and expertise, including guiding you to identify areas where you need to gain more exposure. Many know only certain aspects of manufacturing and can only recognize a narrow range of specific make traces. You may recognize a die-struck jewelry finding (such as a six-prong die-struck head) but not when a mold was used to recast it to make a piece of jewelry. Do you understand why that matters? This short introduction to jewelry forensics overviews the two-and-a-half-day class, identifying hand-fabricated components, cast components, CAD/CAM manufactured components, and cast-in-place gemstones as examples.
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BASIC METALLURGY OF THE PRECIOUS METALS: PART 2 - DEVELOPMENT OF ALLOY MICROSTRUCTURE THROUGH SOLIDIFICATION, WORKING AND ANNEALING
Part 2 of this Basic Metallurgy Series looks at how alloy microstructure is influenced by melting & solidification, by subsequent deformation and by annealing treatments of deformed (cold-worked) material. This in turn affects mechanical properties and the ability to further process the material without causing cracking and fracture. The process of recrystallization during annealing to restore ductility is explained and how annealing time and temperature affects the microstructure, particularly grain size.
Dr. Christopher W. Corti COReGOLD Technology Consultancy
Dr. Corti holds a Ph.D. in metallurgy from the University of Surrey (UK) and is the managing director of COReGOLD Technology Consultancy. He has more than 45 years of experience in the precious metals industry, initially with Johnson Matthey at their Research Centre. He worked for the World Gold Council from 1994 to 2004 and served as a consultant there until 2009. Chris edited Gold Technology, Gold Bulletin and the series of World Gold Council handbooks/manuals. He is currently a consultant for the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths. Dr. Corti presented at the Santa Fe Symposium for 24 years and is a recipient of the Santa Fe Symposium® Research, Technology, Ambassador and Lifetime Achievement Awards.
BASIC METALLURGY OF THE PRECIOUS METALS: PART 2 - DEVELOPMENT OF ALLOY MICROSTRUCTURE THROUGH SOLIDIFICATION, WORKING AND ANNEALING
Part 2 of this Basic Metallurgy Series looks at how alloy microstructure is influenced by melting & solidification, by subsequent deformation and by annealing treatments of deformed (cold-worked) material. This in turn affects mechanical properties and the ability to further process the material without causing cracking and fracture. The process of recrystallization during annealing to restore ductility is explained and how annealing time and temperature affects the microstructure, particularly grain size.
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REVIEW OF CHALLENGES AND OPPORTUNITIES IN LASER BEAM POWDER BED FUSION OF PLATINUM ALLOYS
This paper presents an updated review of challenges and opportunities in platinum laser beam powder bed fusion (LB-PBF), which has emerged as a promising technique for fabricating complex and intricate platinum jewelry pieces. Bridging the gap between existing reviews and the current landscape of the technology, in this paper, the origins of defects in LB-PBF and strategies for enhancing part quality through build file preparation, support structure attachment and post-processing are reviewed. Insight and background to the observed process-microstructure-property relationship for additively manufactured Platinum Ruthenium 950 is provided, and the implications of this for the material performance and post-processing techniques are discussed. Finally, powder supply considerations and the potential benefits of new platinum alloys designed for additive manufacturing are presented. As additive manufacturing continues to transform industries, the insights from this paper intend to contribute to advancing platinum LB-PBF's capabilities for jewellery applications.
Dr. Chloe Cunningham Alloyed
Dr. Chloe Cunningham leads the process development activity within the Consumer Products division at Alloyed and holds a PhD from the University of Bath, UK. In her current role, she leads a talented team of engineers to leverage Alloyed’s deep expertise in alloy design and unprecedented additive manufacturing process optimisation to foster a paradigm shift in the way precious metals and in particular, platinum jewellery pieces, are crafted.
REVIEW OF CHALLENGES AND OPPORTUNITIES IN LASER BEAM POWDER BED FUSION OF PLATINUM ALLOYS
This paper presents an updated review of challenges and opportunities in platinum laser beam powder bed fusion (LB-PBF), which has emerged as a promising technique for fabricating complex and intricate platinum jewelry pieces. Bridging the gap between existing reviews and the current landscape of the technology, in this paper, the origins of defects in LB-PBF and strategies for enhancing part quality through build file preparation, support structure attachment and post-processing are reviewed. Insight and background to the observed process-microstructure-property relationship for additively manufactured Platinum Ruthenium 950 is provided, and the implications of this for the material performance and post-processing techniques are discussed. Finally, powder supply considerations and the potential benefits of new platinum alloys designed for additive manufacturing are presented. As additive manufacturing continues to transform industries, the insights from this paper intend to contribute to advancing platinum LB-PBF's capabilities for jewellery applications.
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MANUFACTURING EXPERIENCES IN GREY & BLACK TITANIUM JEWELRY
The world of Jewelry design has witnessed a transformation in recent years, driven by a growing customer demand for unique, durable, and aesthetically captivating products. To meet these demands, manufacturers are moving towards innovative ways including High end CNC machining, Robotic applications & digital transformation. These transformational trends have inspired us to experiment with various metals such as stainless steel, aluminum, tungsten & titanium. Amongst these metals titanium-based jewelry has high specific strength, corrosion resistance, and is easily surface modified by temperature or anodization to acquire a sophisticated aesthetic color. Titanium is more durable than gold or platinum, has a lower price and presently is a fashion material due to the successful use in challengeable applications. As black titanium has got high zirconium content leading to its flammable nature, we are gaining experiences using combination of specific programs, tools & process parameters to overcome the challenges and meet the product requirement. Going beyond plain Titanium jewelry, we have also developed the capabilities in various types of diamond setting types like Pave, bezel, prong etc with different skill set & tools. This paper elaborates the journey of developing machining processes, various diamond settings & assembly capabilities.
Ramarao Ilavarapu Sunjewels Pvt. Ltd
Mr. Ramarao Ilavarapu possesses more than 28 years of diverse experience spanning industrial, white goods, cutting tools, fashion, and luxury goods sectors. He has extensive experience in production management, manufacturing engineering, project management, supply chain management, and product development. Presently, he serves as the Senior Vice-President (Operations) & Director at Sunjewels Pvt Ltd. He is a certified Independent Director & Fellow member of Institute of Directors (F.IOD) He has pioneered numerous systems and innovations like robotic application in processes like ceramic & enamel application, texturing, sprue grinding and lapping in jewellery manufacturing. He graduated in Mechanical Engineering and earned a Postgraduate degree in Industrial Engineering & Management from JNTU, Hyderabad. Additionally, he holds a Certificate in Strategic Management from Indian Institute of Management, Rohtak and a Postgraduate Diploma in Business Management from NMIMS, Mumbai. He received the Business Innovation Award for his technical paper on "Implementation of Tablets & Vision System for Measuring Jewellery Quality, Productivity and Knowledge" at the Santa Fe Symposium in 2019. He also spoke at the first Jewelry Symposium held in May 2023 in Minneapolis, extending his involvement to the community. In addition, he won the All-India Prize from the KAIZEN Institute for Value Stream Implementation in 2014.
MANUFACTURING EXPERIENCES IN GREY & BLACK TITANIUM JEWELRY
The world of Jewelry design has witnessed a transformation in recent years, driven by a growing customer demand for unique, durable, and aesthetically captivating products. To meet these demands, manufacturers are moving towards innovative ways including High end CNC machining, Robotic applications & digital transformation. These transformational trends have inspired us to experiment with various metals such as stainless steel, aluminum, tungsten & titanium. Amongst these metals titanium-based jewelry has high specific strength, corrosion resistance, and is easily surface modified by temperature or anodization to acquire a sophisticated aesthetic color. Titanium is more durable than gold or platinum, has a lower price and presently is a fashion material due to the successful use in challengeable applications. As black titanium has got high zirconium content leading to its flammable nature, we are gaining experiences using combination of specific programs, tools & process parameters to overcome the challenges and meet the product requirement. Going beyond plain Titanium jewelry, we have also developed the capabilities in various types of diamond setting types like Pave, bezel, prong etc with different skill set & tools. This paper elaborates the journey of developing machining processes, various diamond settings & assembly capabilities.
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GENERATIVE AI AS A TOOL FOR JEWELRY DESIGN
While the jewelry industry is deeply rooted in traditional tools and techniques, we must recognize that generative AI exists and is readily available today to assist jewelers. The intersection between AI and the creative arts is especially controversial, and the use of generative AI in jewelry design is no different.
This paper will explore how generative AI creates images based on text prompts. We’ll compare some of the common software platforms with a specific focus on creating realistic jewelry images. We will see how designers are already leveraging this technology to advance their creative output. We will navigate the new fields of ethical, legal, and regulatory questions that have arisen around AI generated art. Lastly, we’ll explore how we as jewelry designers can best use this new tool to enhance our creative expression.
Michael Magee Gemological Institute of America
Mike Magee is an award-winning jewelry CAD designer with over 15 years of experience teaching CAD to the jewelry industry. After graduating from Cornell University with a BS in Communications, Mike trained as a goldsmith, apprenticing with jewelry designer George Sawyer. He then created and ran his own custom jewelry business before joining the Jewelry Manufacturing Arts department at the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). In his position as Senior Subject Specialist at GIA, he divides his time between leading curriculum development for GIA’s Jewelry Manufacturing Arts courses, researching new developments in CAD/CAM, and teaching.
GENERATIVE AI AS A TOOL FOR JEWELRY DESIGN
While the jewelry industry is deeply rooted in traditional tools and techniques, we must recognize that generative AI exists and is readily available today to assist jewelers. The intersection between AI and the creative arts is especially controversial, and the use of generative AI in jewelry design is no different.
This paper will explore how generative AI creates images based on text prompts. We’ll compare some of the common software platforms with a specific focus on creating realistic jewelry images. We will see how designers are already leveraging this technology to advance their creative output. We will navigate the new fields of ethical, legal, and regulatory questions that have arisen around AI generated art. Lastly, we’ll explore how we as jewelry designers can best use this new tool to enhance our creative expression.
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FINISHING AND DECORATIVE TECHNIQUES USED IN WATCHMAKING
Anglage, perlage, black polishing, Geneva stripes, guilloché. These are just some of the techniques used in finishing high-end watches. This paper and presentation will introduce you to the finishing and decoration techniques commonly used in the watch industry, as well as how to execute them in your own work.
Chris Manning Silver Hand Studios
Chris Manning is an independent watchmaker and jeweller from Ottawa Canada. He has been researching and expanding on historical metal working techniques for over 25 years. Past focus has been on ancient techniques such as niello, and old techniques such as guilloché. His current focus is on designing and making mechanical watches, including the techniques for decorating them to a very high level.
FINISHING AND DECORATIVE TECHNIQUES USED IN WATCHMAKING
Anglage, perlage, black polishing, Geneva stripes, guilloché. These are just some of the techniques used in finishing high-end watches. This paper and presentation will introduce you to the finishing and decoration techniques commonly used in the watch industry, as well as how to execute them in your own work.
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HEALTH AND SAFETY
Charles Lewton-Brain
Charles Lewton-Brain learned and worked in Germany, Canada and the United States. His work is concerned with nature and structure. His jewelry and research into compositional systems for metal working has been published internationally. He invented and disseminated foldforming, a system of working sheet metal new to the field. Charles received Canada’s highest honor for Craft, The Saidye Bronfman Governor Generals Award. He co-founded the Ganoksin.com Project with Dr. Hanuman Aspler in 1996, now the worlds largest educational website for jewelers. He has over 1000 pages of his writing there.
HEALTH AND SAFETY
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REDEFINING METAL SAFETY STANDARDS: THE PROMISE OF ANCHORCERT PRO.
Allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) induced by metals is an acknowledged scientific concern, with nickel (Ni) being particularly prominent. Yet, numerous transition metals are increasingly coming to dermatological attention due to their allergenic properties under specific conditions. A key challenge in the field has been not just the identification of allergenic metals but also understanding their potency or their capability to induce sensitisation or elicitation. Traditionally, elicitation thresholds for metals are derived from clinical studies. However, in the absence of such literature for certain potential allergen metals, the 'AnchorCert Pro' methodology stands out. Using a comprehensive statistical approach grounded in extensive sample data, it offers unparalleled precision in defining these thresholds.
Developed over three years at the Birmingham Assay Office's AnchorCert Analytical Laboratory, this method rigorously examines metals' allergenic potentials in consumer goods. Detailed evaluations using an innovative artificial sweat medium help determine if specific metals surpass recommended levels. Notably, it aligns with the EN 1811 standards for nickel release; the methodology further defines the release patterns of 16 potential skin sensitisers. A positive result from the AnchorCert Pro assures that the component is skin-friendly and lessens the chances of metal-induced ACD, even in sensitised individuals, heralding an era of enhanced skin protection. This compliance implies a robust defence against both the induction and elicitation phases of metal allergies.
Adjustments to the methodology ensure it remains compatible with REACH Lead/Cadmium and RoHS directives for electro-technical products. Current research efforts are geared towards integrating additional US regulatory standards for jewellery and other consumer items, with a focus on redefining metal safety standards for jewellery & consumer goods, echoing the promise encapsulated in the title.
Dippal Manchanda Birmingham Assay Office
Dippal Manchanda, Technical Director and Chief Assayer of the Birmingham Assay Office, has over 38 years of expertise in the field of metal assaying and analysis. Holding an MSc in Inorganic Chemistry, he serves as the Chairman of the British Standards Institution (BSI) STI/53 committee on jewellery and horology and is the UK representative for CEN/TC 347/Task Group 1, responsible for revising the EN1811- Nickel release test standard. He is also the UK expert for the ISO/TC 174/WG 1 committee on jewellery and a member of CIBJO's Precious Metal Commission Steering Committee. A Fellow of the Royal Society of Chemistry (FRSC), a Chartered Chemist (CChem), and a Chartered Scientist (CSci), Dippal is an active researcher on metal allergies and has been actively involved in assisting with regulatory compliance measures and in the writing of ISO/CEN standards on precious and non-precious metals. He has an extensive portfolio of peer-reviewed papers and has been a regular speaker at international conferences.
REDEFINING METAL SAFETY STANDARDS: THE PROMISE OF ANCHORCERT PRO.
Allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) induced by metals is an acknowledged scientific concern, with nickel (Ni) being particularly prominent. Yet, numerous transition metals are increasingly coming to dermatological attention due to their allergenic properties under specific conditions. A key challenge in the field has been not just the identification of allergenic metals but also understanding their potency or their capability to induce sensitisation or elicitation. Traditionally, elicitation thresholds for metals are derived from clinical studies. However, in the absence of such literature for certain potential allergen metals, the 'AnchorCert Pro' methodology stands out. Using a comprehensive statistical approach grounded in extensive sample data, it offers unparalleled precision in defining these thresholds.
Developed over three years at the Birmingham Assay Office's AnchorCert Analytical Laboratory, this method rigorously examines metals' allergenic potentials in consumer goods. Detailed evaluations using an innovative artificial sweat medium help determine if specific metals surpass recommended levels. Notably, it aligns with the EN 1811 standards for nickel release; the methodology further defines the release patterns of 16 potential skin sensitisers. A positive result from the AnchorCert Pro assures that the component is skin-friendly and lessens the chances of metal-induced ACD, even in sensitised individuals, heralding an era of enhanced skin protection. This compliance implies a robust defence against both the induction and elicitation phases of metal allergies.
Adjustments to the methodology ensure it remains compatible with REACH Lead/Cadmium and RoHS directives for electro-technical products. Current research efforts are geared towards integrating additional US regulatory standards for jewellery and other consumer items, with a focus on redefining metal safety standards for jewellery & consumer goods, echoing the promise encapsulated in the title.
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THE HISTORY OF DIE MAKING FOR HOLLOW FORMS
Die forming to create hollow forms is an ancient goldsmithing practice that was used to create the most beautiful jewelry the world has ever seen. I will explore the origins of this ground breaking technology which is still used today in many industries. Understanding die forming as the ancients did is a useful skill at the jewelers' bench and due for a revival.
Jeanette Caines Jewelry Arts Inc.
Jeanette K Caines is a master Goldsmith with over 30 years’ experience. She is the director and owner of Jewelry Arts Inc, the leading jewelry school in New York City and the only center for teaching ancient jewelry making techniques in the world. Her current projects include an investigation into the beginnings of die forming, and a study with the College of Art and Design at Beijing University of Technology to document and revive the almost lost art of Chinese Filigree. An award-winning author of Soldering Demystified, she was featured in a 2016 PBS Nova special Treasures of the Earth: Metals.
THE HISTORY OF DIE MAKING FOR HOLLOW FORMS
Die forming to create hollow forms is an ancient goldsmithing practice that was used to create the most beautiful jewelry the world has ever seen. I will explore the origins of this ground breaking technology which is still used today in many industries. Understanding die forming as the ancients did is a useful skill at the jewelers' bench and due for a revival.
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IMPROVEMENTS IN PLATINUM ELECTROFORMING
Platinum electroforming never came into prominence as a method of jewellery production due to challenges with bath life, cost, recovery and refining of platinum, stability in production and product quality. Recent breakthroughs have addressed some of these limitations, enhancing the performance and feasibility of platinum electroforming as a manufacturing method, thereby opening new opportunities for platinum in the market. While the technical aspects of platinum electroforming are being resolved, it is also essential to scrutinize its application in product design; to ensure that the technology's potential is harnessed effectively, resulting in the creation of new market opportunities and not disrupt through lowered prices. By strategically leveraging platinum electroforming, innovative product designs can access untapped consumer segments and generate new business potentials. The purpose of this paper is to discuss the need to consider both the technical advancements and the design applications of platinum electroforming. By doing so, the jewellery industry can capitalize on the enhanced performance of this technology, enabling the creation of unique, high-quality platinum jewellery that appeals to a diverse range of consumers.
Tai Wong PGI Global - Director, Innovation and Product Development at Platinum Guild International
Tai has been with PGI China for more than 12 years, working with partners from jewellery manufacturing to retailers as Director for Trade Development and for Innovation and Product Development. He now takes up an international role at PGI on Global Innovation Development. His key objectives are to expand platinum jewellery business through the implementation of novel technology, through collaborations, and by developing new market opportunities through new consumer segmentations. Tai is also an active creator on the PlatinumABC channel that endeavors the gathering of platinum expertise from around the world for innovation and education purposes.
IMPROVEMENTS IN PLATINUM ELECTROFORMING
Platinum electroforming never came into prominence as a method of jewellery production due to challenges with bath life, cost, recovery and refining of platinum, stability in production and product quality. Recent breakthroughs have addressed some of these limitations, enhancing the performance and feasibility of platinum electroforming as a manufacturing method, thereby opening new opportunities for platinum in the market. While the technical aspects of platinum electroforming are being resolved, it is also essential to scrutinize its application in product design; to ensure that the technology's potential is harnessed effectively, resulting in the creation of new market opportunities and not disrupt through lowered prices. By strategically leveraging platinum electroforming, innovative product designs can access untapped consumer segments and generate new business potentials. The purpose of this paper is to discuss the need to consider both the technical advancements and the design applications of platinum electroforming. By doing so, the jewellery industry can capitalize on the enhanced performance of this technology, enabling the creation of unique, high-quality platinum jewellery that appeals to a diverse range of consumers.