Papers

The Apprenticeship Task Force is working on curriculum and support materials to help jewelry businesses successfully take on apprentices with federal recognition and support. This report will present the work being done to take advantage of new legislation which focuses on supporting apprenticeships. Questions like the following will be answered: What is the legislature that can be applied to for benefits? What kind of support does if offer for apprenticeships? How can jewelry businesses access these supports? What is MJSA doing to facilitate federal recognition of our industry’s needs, organizing frameworks, and developing curriculum to support training?

This paper will explore typical investment types that jewelers are used to, the types dental labs use, and even ceramic shell. Various properties will be investigated and discussed, including the strengths and weaknesses of the various investment types. This will cover pattern and flask setup, mixing, bench cure, and burnout. This presentation will showcase other mold-making technologies to encourage jewelers’ creative inclinations and open new possibilities to further their art. The technical knowledge shared will benefit manufacturers in dialing in an existing process or discovering something new for implementation.

In the last 15 years, driven by the luxury jewelry sector, rose gold has experienced a resurgence in popularity. Despite its historical challenges, red gold is relatively easy to work with, but not so easy to assemble. A well-known technological problem with 18K rose gold alloys is their poor resistance to fire cracking. This weakness becomes particularly problematic during soldering or resizing, where uneven heating induces thermal stresses that, combined with the ordered phase precipitation typical of 18K rose gold, often cause fractures, especially in thinner sections of the piece. In recent years, new gold alloys with grain refiners have been developed to promote fine grain structures and reduce fire cracking. Unfortunately, grain refiners have also hindered the use of silicon, an essential element in gold alloys for casting purposes that provides a very clean, deoxidized surface that prevents reactions with the investment material. In fact, the combination of silicon and grain refiners consistently leads to the formation of hard spots. Through a comprehensive analysis, this study seeks to identify and validate methods to achieve the best possible balance between effective deoxidation and robust fire cracking resistance in 18K rose gold alloys.

Die Striking is a “premier” process for the jewelry industry. The benefits include a porosity-free surface, consistency of critical quality features. What happens when you have invested in a die striking process, but you obtain unsatisfactory results including rework, missing deadlines or high scrap? In this paper, I will provide a 5M approach to explore possible causes of failure of the die striking process and how to prevent them. MANPOWER (or Human Power): develop a training program to teach a basic middle and senior understanding of die striking. Many defects are the result of insufficient training. MACHINES: Different machines can be used for die striking jewelry, each has a unique application, and needs comprehensive preventive maintenance (PM) program for machinery and tools. MATERIALS: The quality of the die striking process is related to the quality of the raw materials. Whether purchasing or making them, materials need to be carefully inspected prior to the press operation. METHOD: Initial die trials parameters need to be documented for first piece and in-line inspection. MEASUREMENT: It is vital to verify the tools and raw materials, temper or hardness for tools, and dies and materials.

Rhino is one of the most prevalent CAD programs on the market today for jewelry-making, but it lacks jewelry-specific features requiring roundabout ways to accomplish basic tasks needed by jewelers. As a result, many purchase expensive plugins to add jewelry-related commands and features to simplify these tasks. What if you could build some of these yourself with something already inside your Rhino installation? In this presentation, I will introduce to the jewelry industry the virtues of using Grasshopper 3D to create custom builders, with the ability to customize based on the user’s preferences, under the context of how to construct a Metal Weights Calculator, and add features that are not found in any Rhino Jewelry plugin on the market today. I will also demonstrate special use cases for constructing other jewelry items in Grasshopper 3D to increase efficiency and enhance customization.

Responsible supply chains depend on accurately identifying and tracing gemstone materials. By understanding their origins and sources, you help eliminate the risk of synthetics being misrepresented as ‘natural.’ This transparency also clarifies any treatments that may have been applied to the gemstones. Ultimately, you benefit from a comprehensive view of the supply chain, as well as significantly reducing the chances of acquiring synthetics or undisclosed treatments in your gemstone purchases. In this presentation you will gain insight into the social development value of responsible supply chains and learn to eliminate synthetics in the market and how to connect with the needs of younger buyers.

The color of 18K gold alloys appears stable over time. However, slow color changes appear, especially in contact with human skin, which might result in visible color changes. In particular, red gold alloys are prone to discoloration from red to yellow. In the past, several successful attempts have been made to increase the color stability of red gold alloys by additions of Pt, Pd, In or other elements. It appeared that there was a strong scatter in the color stability data of the 5N reference alloy among different studies. Therefore, we studied the color stability of 2N and 5N 18K gold alloys under defined conditions over long periods under different standardized conditions. Even when exposed to air at room temperature, the color change of both alloys is so pronounced that the tolerance range of the color in accordance with ISO 8654 cannot be maintained. In this presentation, become aware of 18K alloy stability issues, learn about the advancements in alloy formulation, enabling the creation of more durable and color-stable jewelry, and gain insight into the factors affecting gold alloy color stability.

All jewelers suffer from defects in manufacture from time to time. The cracks and other defects may look similar, but the cause can be varied. In this third part of the Basic Metallurgy series, we examine some of the common defects that can occur that can lead to problems in both manufacture and later in service with the customer. It is not easy to pinpoint the cause in many instances. The causes of such defects, some of which can lead to difficulties in manufacturing quality and to cracking and fracture, and the steps that can be taken to minimize their occurrence are reviewed. An appreciation of the factors that lead to defects should aid the jeweler in defining the cause when they inevitably arise.

Platinum has only been known to Europe since the 16th century. However, the use of platinum in jewellery dates from the late 19th/early 20th century, often as a basis for diamond (and other precious gemstone) jewellery. Early jewellery alloys tended to be based on the existing industrial alloys and comparatively little development of specific jewellery alloys was carried out. Its acceptance as a hallmarkable jewellery metal came in 1975 when, with a wider availability of the metal, platinum was marketed as a high value jewellery metal and platinum jewellery started to grow in popularity, mainly at 950 and 900 fineness qualities. Since that time there has been considerable alloy development specifically for jewellery application and tailored to the requirements of different manufacturing technologies. The evolution of platinum jewellery alloys over the last century is reviewed in the context of the challenges presented in its use for jewellery application. It is noted that there has been a substantial increase in alloy development over the last 30 years, particularly focused on improved investment (lost wax) casting alloys as well as better mechanical properties.

Opals are known as the Queen of gems. Their sparkle, play of light, and color are mesmerizing and alluring in jewelry. Jewelers have been told natural opals cannot be cast in place in molten metal or fired in place in metal clay, and they need to be set traditionally with a bezel or prongs for inclusion in their jewelry. This is because it will become mere dust if exposed to extreme heat. This all changed when we discovered a cultured opal that can take heat up to 1650°F/900°C. I put these beauties through an extensive series of tests. I’ll cover what makes these cultured opals different from naturally grown opals, how to fire them in metal clay or cast them in place, and how to work with them during the finishing stages of adding a polish, patina on the metal, or tumbling them without injury. Additionally, we’ll discuss educating customers about their choices in buying cultured opals or natural opals by comparing and contrasting the pros and cons of each choice, including issues of sustainability, ethical issues, and forced labor concerns.

This paper provides a comprehensive overview of the gold plating processes, detailing the essential steps and considerations. It covers the pre-treatment phase, which includes surface preparation and cleaning to ensure optimal adhesion. The core plating process is examined, highlighting the specific conditions required for gold plating, such as temperature, voltage, and time. Post-treatment procedures, including rinsing and drying, are discussed to ensure high-quality finishes. Additionally, the paper addresses maintenance and replenishment of plating baths, emphasizing the importance of regular monitoring and chemical adjustments to maintain bath performance and longevity. This guide serves as a valuable resource for understanding the fundamentals of gold and rhodium plating, ensuring efficient and effective application in various industrial settings.

Create 3D jewelry designs from 2D drawings using grayscale to give depth to a 3D model when using a height field going directly from a 2D drawing to a 3D jewelry design. This process is great for organic designs that are almost impossible to do in CAD programs like Rhino. It has cut my production time by 50 to 75%. This process has changed my whole way of doing jewelry design, eliminating the need for CAD. I have been creating this system for over 10 years and now use it for all my designs.

The market of diamonds is moving faster than ever. Diamonds are now available in every quality and every variation: natural, synthetic or recycled. But what does this mean, for the goldsmith, sales agent and not least for the customer. This paper will answer the following questions: What exactly are the advantages or disadvantages of synthetic diamonds? How can they be checked reliably? Not only in the part of jewelry production and its sale, but also in the acceptance of jewelry for repair and the purchase of jewelry for resale. Are synthetic diamonds “green” diamonds? We will review current testing methods, design opportunities synthetic diamonds offer, options for advising customers on the right diamond choice for them, and an investigation into the possible legal pitfalls regarding synthetic/natural diamonds when accepting repairs and rebuying jewelry.

Technology changes are major disruptors in manufacturing. To stay competitive, it is important to understand significant technological developments and the impact they may have on jewelry manufacturing. This presentation explores Generative AI technology, its key capabilities, how the jewelry industry is adopting this technology, and how jewelry manufacturers may take advantage to improve business processes and the customer experience.

As piercing studios expand globally, there is a growing need to raise the bar for safer, more comfortable jewelry. This presentation addresses the advancement of safety protocols in body jewelry, from a professional piercer’s perspective. In this presentation, we delve into the stringent quality controls essential for body piercing jewelry designed for initial and long-term use, emphasizing the importance of developing and adhering to robust consumer safety standards. We discuss the comprehensive manufacturing standards and innovative testing protocols that ensure these products are safe for sensitive and new wearers. Moreover, we explore the critical role of effective geometric design in jewelry intended for long-term wear, to not only boost aesthetic appeal, but enhance comfort and reduce health risks over time. By connecting these aspects, this study calls for higher industry benchmarks and encourages advancements that prioritize and maintain the safety, integrity, and functionality of body piercing jewelry.

Copper and silver mokume gane is one of the least expensive combinations of mokume materials involving precious metal. It is a typical “beginner billet”, yet it is much more difficult to bond than other combinations of precious materials. This difficulty can lead to frustration and keep people from exploring mokume gane further. This presentation aims to study this system for a better understanding of why this combination is difficult to bond and to come up with a best practices system to alleviate these problems. Additionally, the silver and copper galvanic cell will be discussed.

We will see the complete process of creating earrings in the shape of cherry blossom branches with flowers, made with titanium, yellow gold, pink and yellow sapphires, and diamonds. At the beginning of this process, we will observe the real flower, draw up initial sketches, and test new materials and techniques to see the challenges that may come up. In the final design, we will explore how to work and texture the titanium to imitate cherry petals and branches, set sapphires and diamonds in the titanium, and make gold settings for the stigma and stamens. The titanium will be welded and anodized to achieve the cherry blossom color. All the parts will be assembled and the earring closures made. By covering the entire process, we will know how to make a floral piece and understand what it is like to work with these materials, focusing on the most technical and challenging steps.

Alloy properties change when some alloying elements are added. This paper will outline the effect of certain grain refiners on metallurgical and mechanical properties of 18K gold. The aim is to study the effect of grain refiners in yellow gold, pink gold and white gold. The weight percentage of added grain refiner element is kept constant among all three colors of gold to understand their linear effect. The metallurgical study has been carried out by inverted optical microscope. Paper will compare microstructure, Vickers hardness value and tensile 

The surface finish and geometric tolerance of a part are greatly affected by the manufacturing process and both of these attributes are of primary importance to jewelry manufacturing. Sinter-based additive manufacturing (AM) methods such as binder-jetting (BJT), material extrusion (MEX), material jetting (MJT), and vat photopolymerization (VPP) are of interest to jewelry manufacturing as they may have the potential to produce better surface finishes and tolerances than parts produced by laser powder bed fusion. This report will present data from parts manufactured by these sinter-based AM methods from stainless steels. Although the study summarizes stainless steels, the results are directly applicable to parts produced from precious metals.

Seculuxe is an innovative solution that provides smart, nano-scale security and traceability for precious gemstones. It is a disruptive new technological solution that will change the way gemstones can be secured and embedded with immutable traceability. This technology enables the secure traceability of any gemstone by marking it with a unique QR code. The technology utilises a low power ultra-nano laser-marking system married to the Seculuxe hardware and bespoke programming. With this, it is now possible to engrave gemstones externally and internally, with a high resolution, nano-scale QR code invisible to the human eye. This QR code has a much higher fidelity at a much smaller scale than that currently achieved with existing laser-marking systems. This novel, super-lens, technology will achieve superior resolution laser engraving, at a nano scale which renders it ideal for engraving diamonds and other gemstones. This nano-scale marking ability is also paired with a secure digitized ledger that is then authenticated on the Blockchain. The technology required to locate and microscopically read this QR code has also been developed and will be discussed. We shall also give a short update on progress on last year’s paper, The Tui-Tech Project.

This paper illustrates the technology transfer process in the jewelry industry, emphasizing the role of universities in driving innovation from academia to industry. Guided by the triple helix model, the methods include building human competency, standardizing manufacturing, and establishing innovation-driven enterprises. Key innovations, such as a vendor collaboration model, a niello bar pilot plant, anti-tarnish alloys, and a traceability platform, are analyzed with a focus on organizational strategy and structure for successful innovation transfer. The study also examines the development of educational programs that enhance student performance and faculty capabilities to meet industry needs. These initiatives strengthen the university’s role in shaping an innovation ecosystem by preparing students and faculty for the challenges of the jewelry sector. The paper concludes with managerial and research implications, showcasing how program development, student outcomes, and faculty performance drive the university’s role in shaping an innovation ecosystem within the jewelry industry.

The presentation is focused on introducing Binder Jet technology in its applications for jewelry making and showing results from one year of use of 3D binder jet printers at our laboratories in Bressanvido, Italy. Binder jetting is still not well known in the jewelry sector, although remarkably known in other industries. It has a remarkably different concept of work from Selective Laser Melting, and our practical experiences over one year of testing and production using it will be shared during the presentation.

In this speech, divided into three blocks, we will address: • Characteristics and manipulation. Origin of these metals and main qualities (malleability, ductility, toughness, mechanical resistance and weight), their different alloys and benefits of each of them. The way in which they must be worked, and the processes to which they react in a remarkably different way than the precious metals traditionally used in jewelry. • Welding. The different welding methods most suitable for both metals, advantages, and disadvantages of each type of technology. Preparation and cleaning of surfaces to be welded. Welding, finishing and preparation for anodizing. • Anodizing. Differences in the anodizing of both metals and their different processes. Qualities of each one, colors, range of tones and durability.

In the field of jewelry manufacturing, the traditional characterization of gold and silver alloys relies heavily on extensive physical, chemical, mechanical, and technological testing. This research advances the state of the art by introducing an innovative approach using Artificial Intelligence (AI) and Big Data. Leveraging these technologies, we create predictive models for untested alloy compositions, forecasting critical properties such as melting range, color, hardness, among others. This technique significantly reduces the need for conventional testing, enhancing both accuracy and efficiency. The methodology encompasses data analysis, AI-driven predictions, and validation, focusing on numerous essential attributes in alloy design. Our work represents a pioneering contribution to the industry, opening new avenues for material understanding and streamlined production.

The content will cover applications and comparisons of pressed metal molds to machined metal molds for plastic and wax injected parts for casting. I will give instruction on how to make various molds from flat pendent and emblematic pieces to complex rings with undercuts. Thin wall castings can be achieved due to the ability of using high pressure plastic injectors. I will cover hybrid molds using vulcanized rubber and low melt metal that I developed and consider new hybrid options using 3D printing resins. A list of equipment and supplies will be covered.

The paper will expose readers to an old technology which is in the midst of a grand revival. Many jewelers and watchmakers around the world are developing new uses and new designs with the help of these machines. New machines are coming on the market to help fill the needs. The paper will cover the most recent advances in the techniques and processes along with examples of finished work.

Alloy development plays a crucial role in the jewelry industry, aiming to achieve desired properties such as color, mechanical strength, and corrosion resistance. In this study, we explore the potential benefits of adopting strategies from other industries to enhance the alloy development process in jewelry manufacturing. This interdisciplinary approach integrates thermodynamic simulations and high-throughput screening methods to accelerate the discovery and optimization of alloy compositions. Thermodynamic simulations are employed to predict phase stability, solidification behavior, and alloy properties. By leveraging computational tools, researchers can effectively analyze the effects of different alloying elements on the final material properties, offering insights into the color, mechanical strength, and corrosion resistance of jewelry alloys. Additionally, high-throughput screening methods are adapted to efficiently explore a vast composition space of potential alloy candidates. These screening techniques enable rapid fabrication and evaluation of a large number of alloy samples, allowing researchers to identify promising compositions for further analysis. The findings presented here can pave the way for innovative and sustainable practices in jewelry manufacturing while offering new avenues for exploration and inspiration across various industries.

Diamond gemstones are commonly known to be described by the 4 C’s, the first 3: Carat, Clarity and Color all have clearly understood quantitative measures. However, the fourth parameter ’Cut’ is a qualitative value determined by the individual gemstone’s interaction with light and is graded by a skilled, highly trained gemologist. In principle the cut of a diamond is precisely defined by the well-known angles necessary to create total internal reflection of any light entering the gemstone. This geometry will produce the optimum values for the four sub measurements of Cut which are: Brilliance, Fire, Sparkle and Symmetry However, this precise geometry is regularly altered to maximize carat weight, to remove inclusions to improve clarity and/or adjust the color value. This means that every diamond gemstone is unique and requires individual grading on a Subjective scale. Normally this is done by a skilled gemologist on behalf of an industry governing body such as the GIA. In this paper you will be introduced to a novel and unique technological solution to accurately and repeatably measure the Brilliance of a gemstone, particularly in a Diamond.

Many jewelry trade professionals already go through a process to identify, analyze, and assess an item’s quality and nature. Is it comprehensive and systematic? GIA provides a framework for building experience and expertise, including guiding you to identify areas where you need to gain more exposure. Many know only certain aspects of manufacturing and can only recognize a narrow range of specific make traces. You may recognize a die-struck jewelry finding (such as a six-prong die-struck head) but not when a mold was used to recast it to make a piece of jewelry. Do you understand why that matters? This short introduction to jewelry forensics overviews the two-and-a-half-day class, identifying hand-fabricated components, cast components, CAD/CAM manufactured components, and cast-in-place gemstones as examples.

Part 2 of this Basic Metallurgy Series looks at how alloy microstructure is influenced by melting & solidification, by subsequent deformation and by annealing treatments of deformed (cold-worked) material. This in turn affects mechanical properties and the ability to further process the material without causing cracking and fracture. The process of recrystallization during annealing to restore ductility is explained and how annealing time and temperature affects the microstructure, particularly grain size.

This paper presents an updated review of challenges and opportunities in platinum laser beam powder bed fusion (LB-PBF), which has emerged as a promising technique for fabricating complex and intricate platinum jewelry pieces. Bridging the gap between existing reviews and the current landscape of the technology, in this paper, the origins of defects in LB-PBF and strategies for enhancing part quality through build file preparation, support structure attachment and post-processing are reviewed. Insight and background to the observed process-microstructure-property relationship for additively manufactured Platinum Ruthenium 950 is provided, and the implications of this for the material performance and post-processing techniques are discussed. Finally, powder supply considerations and the potential benefits of new platinum alloys designed for additive manufacturing are presented. As additive manufacturing continues to transform industries, the insights from this paper intend to contribute to advancing platinum LB-PBF’s capabilities for jewellery applications.

The world of Jewelry design has witnessed a transformation in recent years, driven by a growing customer demand for unique, durable, and aesthetically captivating products. To meet these demands, manufacturers are moving towards innovative ways including high-end CNC machining, robotic applications & digital transformation. These transformational trends have inspired us to experiment with various metals such as stainless steel, aluminum, tungsten & titanium. Amongst these metals titanium-based jewelry has high specific strength, corrosion resistance, and is easily surface modified by temperature or anodization to acquire a sophisticated aesthetic color. Titanium is more durable than gold or platinum, has a lower price and presently is a fashion material due to the successful use in challengeable applications. As black titanium has got high zirconium content leading to its flammable nature, we are gaining experiences using combination of specific programs, tools & process parameters to overcome the challenges and meet the product requirement. Going beyond plain Titanium jewelry, we have also developed the capabilities in various types of diamond setting types like Pave, bezel, prong etc., with different skill sets and tools. This paper elaborates the journey of developing machining processes, various diamond settings & assembly capabilities.

While the jewelry industry is deeply rooted in traditional tools and techniques, we must recognize that generative AI exists and is readily available today to assist jewelers. The intersection between AI and the creative arts is especially controversial, and the use of generative AI in jewelry design is no different. This paper will explore how generative AI creates images based on text prompts. We’ll compare some of the common software platforms with a specific focus on creating realistic jewelry images. We will see how designers are already leveraging this technology to advance their creative output. We will navigate the new fields of ethical, legal, and regulatory questions that have arisen around AI generated art. Lastly, we’ll explore how we as jewelry designers can best use this new tool to enhance our creative expression.

It has been some time since safety was addressed in manufacturing in a forum like this. My 1998 paper for the Society of North American Goldsmiths and my book several years later covered most of what is important for small to medium sized shops, but it is time to revisit the subject (and expand the safety discussion into new technologies). This paper outlines an introduction to the main broad issues of safety in a smaller production or workshop studio situation, revisits what categories of things to pay attention to, and offers a review of some new issues arising from contemporary technology use.

Allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) induced by metals is an acknowledged scientific concern, with nickel (Ni) being particularly prominent. Yet, numerous transition metals are increasingly coming to dermatological attention due to their allergenic properties under specific conditions. A key challenge in the field has been not just the identification of allergenic metals but also understanding their potency or their capability to induce sensitisation or elicitation. Traditionally, elicitation thresholds for metals are derived from clinical studies. However, in the absence of such literature for certain potential allergen metals, the ‘AnchorCert Pro’ methodology stands out. Using a comprehensive statistical approach grounded in extensive sample data, it offers unparalleled precision in defining these thresholds. Developed over three years at the Birmingham Assay Office’s AnchorCert Analytical Laboratory, this method rigorously examines metals’ allergenic potentials in consumer goods. Detailed evaluations using an innovative artificial sweat medium help determine if specific metals surpass recommended levels. Notably, it aligns with the EN 1811 standards for nickel release; the methodology further defines the release patterns of 16 potential skin sensitisers. A positive result from the AnchorCert Pro assures that the component is skin-friendly and lessens the chances of metal-induced ACD, even in sensitised individuals, heralding an era of enhanced skin protection. This compliance implies a robust defence against both the induction and elicitation phases of metal allergies. Adjustments to the methodology ensure it remains compatible with REACH Lead/Cadmium and RoHS directives for electro-technical products. Current research efforts are geared towards integrating additional US regulatory standards for jewellery and other consumer items, with a focus on redefining metal safety standards for jewellery & consumer goods, echoing the promise encapsulated in the title.

Die forming to create hollow forms is an ancient goldsmithing practice that was used to create the most beautiful jewelry the world has ever seen. I will explore the origins of this groundbreaking technology which is still used today in many industries. Understanding die forming as the ancients did is a useful skill at the jewelers’ bench and due for a revival.

Platinum electroforming never came into prominence as a method of jewellery production due to challenges with bath life, cost, recovery and refining of platinum, stability in production and product quality. Recent breakthroughs have addressed some of these limitations, enhancing the performance and feasibility of platinum electroforming as a manufacturing method, thereby opening new opportunities for platinum in the market. While the technical aspects of platinum electroforming are being resolved, it is also essential to scrutinize its application in product design; to ensure that the technology’s potential is harnessed effectively, resulting in the creation of new market opportunities and not disrupt through lowered prices. By strategically leveraging platinum electroforming, innovative product designs can access untapped consumer segments and generate new business potentials. The purpose of this paper is to discuss the need to consider both the technical advancements and the design applications of platinum electroforming. By doing so, the jewellery industry can capitalize on the enhanced performance of this technology, enabling the creation of unique, high-quality platinum jewellery that appeals to a diverse range of consumers.

The Apprenticeship Task Force is working on curriculum and support materials to help jewelry businesses successfully take on apprentices with federal recognition and support. This report will present the work being done to take advantage of new legislation which focuses on supporting apprenticeships. Questions like the following will be answered: What is the legislature that can be applied to for benefits? What kind of support does if offer for apprenticeships? How can jewelry businesses access these supports? What is MJSA doing to facilitate federal recognition of our industry’s needs, organizing frameworks, and developing curriculum to support training?

To open the inaugural year of The Jewelry Symposium, it is germane to look back on the progress our industry has made in information sharing and advancing technology. Part reminiscence, part industry history, this presentation reviews the creation of The Jewelry Symposium’s predecessor, the Santa Fe Symposium®, and strives to serve as a reminder that anyone can do research.

One of the most underrated tools in a jeweler’s arsenal is the sink trap. It can be a difficult and unpleasant tool to use, but it’s necessary. It makes the metal recovery process more efficient and is essential to the financial bottom line of any jewelry operation. I’ll share my 14 years of experience with this essential tool and will review sink trap sizes, considerations for installation, what you can and cannot put down the drain, and how to effectively clean it.

Many nearly forgotten ancient metalsmithing technologies are still very relevant for metalsmithing practice today. This is an examination of gemstone foiling techniques from ancient times to the present. This highly effective technique has been largely forgotten by today’s metalsmiths and is due for a revival. The modernization of diamond cutting led to foiling becoming a forgotten technology, despite the large number of metalsmiths who use gemstones besides brilliant cut diamonds. Modern foiling methods are an easy and effective way to improve the light reflection in gemstones and this skill should be a part of the modern metalsmithing lexicon.

In each step of manufacturing jewelry, there are many factors that can adversely affect quality. Because of this, process control is very important. The investing process is one of those steps in which process control is vital. Multiple process factors will be focused on including water quality, the temperature of the water and of the powder, and also the water-to-powder mixing ratio. This paper will show how dependent the properties, and thus the performance, of gypsum-based investment are to these factors.

The aim of this series of ‘Basic Metallurgy’ presentations is to help jewelers better understand the science and technology that underpins the manufacture of jewelry in their industry, be it by traditional handcraft techniques or by mass manufacture on machines. This is important if they are to produce good product efficiently and avoid defects and other problems that impact quality, time taken and especially costs. In Part I, we look at how alloying affects the properties of the jewelry precious metals and the influence of working and annealing on these properties.

The presentation is focused on introducing Binder Jet technology in its applications for jewelry making and showing results from one year of use of 3D binder jet printers at our laboratories in Bressanvido, Italy. Binder jetting is still not well known in the jewelry sector, although remarkably known in other industries. It has a remarkably different concept of work from Selective Laser Melting, and our practical experiences over one year of testing and production using it will be shared during the presentation.

Given that additively manufactured (AM) platinum alloys are relatively new to the market, early adopters benefit from increasing data on their material properties. The alloy 95% platinum 5% ruthenium (950 PtRu) is widely used across the United States in cast and fabricated forms, however there is scant data in the literature for AM outputs of this alloy. The present work reports mechanical properties and microstructures for Direct Metal Laser Sintered (DMLS) 950 PtRu in the as-printed and hot isostatic pressed conditions, and further offers comparisons with investment cast samples produced in the same alloy to highlight differences in material properties for each method of manufacture.

Bulk metallic glasses based on precious metals offer exceptional hardness compared to conventional crystalline alloys. They can be processed like plastics via routes analogous to injection molding, with excellent as-cast surface finish and far shorter cycle times compared to conventional investment casting of crystalline alloys. The properties of these alloys were presented and discussed at the 34th Santa Fe Symposium. Amongst many potential applications are hallmark-compliant watch casings and jewelry. For the former, current hallmarked alloys are generally too soft. Results of accelerated lab tests for a Pd500 BMG in comparison with comparable crystalline alloys are presented, to assess the suitability of BMGs for watch and jewelry. The outcomes are discussed and critically evaluated to understand the suitability of these alloys now and in the future.

Innovations in the gems and jewellery sector have paved the way for creating and designing unique solutions that cater to increasing consumer demands for quality and value. This paper reviews the design and development of functional testing machines in jewellery manufacturing. Jewellery manufacturers face significant challenges in ensuring the quality of the products based on international standards. Worldwide, diverse types of functional tests are being performed as per the industrial standards to ensure the product reliability and durability. Sunjewels has developed a range of automated testing machines capable of ensuring reliability, durability, and functionality of various product parameters. These machines are used in testing of jewellery clasps, hinges, posts, and plating life. Some of these machines were used in adherence testing of enamel and ceramic coating which led to successful development of a new line of products.

Precious based bulk metallic glasses (BMG) are interesting materials for jewelry and watch making applications due to their properties such as high as-cast hardness, corrosion resistance, and outstanding surface quality. However, high critical cooling rates are required to achieve amorphous solidification which implies challenges for their manufacturing. Thus, they are cast in metallic molds which strongly limits the geometric complexity of cast parts. The present work focuses on the process development for investment based casting of Pt-P-Cu based BMGs in order to allow for jewelry casting on an industrial scale. The results of centrifugal and vacuum-die casting applied for two different alloys are presented. One of the alloys contains 74wt% Platinum and shows a high glass forming ability, whereas the other alloy has 85wt% Platinum with a significantly lower glass forming ability. Cast filigree jewelry parts with an outstanding surface quality have been demonstrated.

Today, many companies manufacture jewelry from stainless steel. This is especially attractive with the high prices of precious metals. There is little jewelry manufacturing information published for those that sit at the bench and who may come across stainless steel or desire to create with it. This presentation will remove the mysteries of working with stainless steel in the small shop setting, detail common, readily available alloys, highlight steps for working with stainless steel, as well as showcase examples of stainless-steel jewelry in production today. From the skills necessary to touch up a stock piece of stainless-steel jewelry all the way through cutting, fabricating, machining, soldering, and finishing, this paper will leave the reader with the skills necessary to work with stainless steel and also how to combine it with precious metals.

This presentation will illustrate advancements in a couple of different fields, some related to the jewelry industry, others not, how they can be incorporated into the jewelry industry, and how we as jewelers can use these technologies to aid us in the fabrication and production of what  we currently do. In addition, it will illustrate when the advancements in a field go far enough, it drives down the price of the technology to become attainable to some studio jewelers and others. The caveat is that when the price goes down, most times, the technical support diminishes as well. Lastly, how to have fun with a variety of technologies (in general) to explore and develop new concepts, ideas, and product for the studio jeweler.

The use of granules to decorate a surface is well known and has been practiced for centuries. This work investigates the construction of a 3D piece entirely from granules. The granules will be arranged in a mold to impart a three- dimensional form. Diffusion bonding of the granules to each other will be achieved by sintering or hot pressing: the application of heating and deformation. The goal is to produce a robust form with a unique aesthetic appeal.

ED-XRF analysis techniques are becoming increasingly popular in the jewelry industry. The possibility of measuring a finished object of even complex shape, without destroying or ruining it, very quickly, is a unique attraction compared to other conventional techniques (e.g. ICP or fire assay). Despite their relative popularity, however, X-ray fluorescence-based techniques were generally relegated to a marginal role, limited to checking the rough composition, due to the perception that this type of measurement is inaccurate. Calibrating the analyzer with good references, choosing specific measurement parameters and understanding the structure of the analyzed jewelry are fundamental in allowing much more precise and accurate measurements. In our tests, we work with and on the new ISO 23345, which defines calibration, measurement and interpretation of data for fineness analysis by ED-XRF.

Origin determination represents one of the most difficult aspects of gem identification for gem-testing laboratories, and one that is not well understood by many in the jewelry trade. The gem trade wants to be told, with complete accuracy, where their colored gemstones come from. Unfortunately, science cannot provide this capability. Thus, laboratories must rely on the experience of their most senior gemologists and a familiarity with gem materials from the different deposits to make origin determinations. This is the reason that these determinations are expert opinions – they are not facts. This presentation will go discuss the challenges of identifying gemstone origins, why those origins affect the price and value, and why these same criteria are not as critical for diamond evaluation.