Papers

In the field of jewelry manufacturing, the traditional characterization of gold and silver alloys relies heavily on extensive physical, chemical, mechanical, and technological testing. This research advances the state of the art by introducing an innovative approach using Artificial Intelligence (AI) and Big Data. Leveraging these technologies, we create predictive models for untested alloy compositions, forecasting critical properties such as melting range, color, hardness, among others. This technique significantly reduces the need for conventional testing, enhancing both accuracy and efficiency. The methodology encompasses data analysis, AI-driven predictions, and validation, focusing on numerous essential attributes in alloy design. Our work represents a pioneering contribution to the industry, opening new avenues for material understanding and streamlined production.

The content will cover applications and comparisons of pressed metal molds to machined metal molds for plastic and wax injected parts for casting. I will give instruction on how to make various molds from flat pendent and emblematic pieces to complex rings with undercuts. Thin wall castings can be achieved due to the ability of using high pressure plastic injectors. I will cover hybrid molds using vulcanized rubber and low melt metal that I developed and consider new hybrid options using 3D printing resins. A list of equipment and supplies will be covered.

Alloy development plays a crucial role in the jewelry industry, aiming to achieve desired properties such as color, mechanical strength, and corrosion resistance. In this study, we explore the potential benefits of adopting strategies from other industries to enhance the alloy development process in jewelry manufacturing. This interdisciplinary approach integrates thermodynamic simulations and high-throughput screening methods to accelerate the discovery and optimization of alloy compositions. Thermodynamic simulations are employed to predict phase stability, solidification behavior, and alloy properties. By leveraging computational tools, researchers can effectively analyze the effects of different alloying elements on the final material properties, offering insights into the color, mechanical strength, and corrosion resistance of jewelry alloys. Additionally, high-throughput screening methods are adapted to efficiently explore a vast composition space of potential alloy candidates. These screening techniques enable rapid fabrication and evaluation of a large number of alloy samples, allowing researchers to identify promising compositions for further analysis. The findings presented here can pave the way for innovative and sustainable practices in jewelry manufacturing while offering new avenues for exploration and inspiration across various industries.

Die forming to create hollow forms is an ancient goldsmithing practice that was used to create the most beautiful jewelry the world has ever seen. I will explore the origins of this groundbreaking technology which is still used today in many industries. Understanding die forming as the ancients did is a useful skill at the jewelers’ bench and due for a revival.

Diamond gemstones are commonly known to be described by the 4 C’s, the first 3: Carat, Clarity and Color all have clearly understood quantitative measures. However, the fourth parameter ’Cut’ is a qualitative value determined by the individual gemstone’s interaction with light and is graded by a skilled, highly trained gemologist. In principle the cut of a diamond is precisely defined by the well-known angles necessary to create total internal reflection of any light entering the gemstone. This geometry will produce the optimum values for the four sub measurements of Cut which are: Brilliance, Fire, Sparkle and Symmetry However, this precise geometry is regularly altered to maximize carat weight, to remove inclusions to improve clarity and/or adjust the color value. This means that every diamond gemstone is unique and requires individual grading on a Subjective scale. Normally this is done by a skilled gemologist on behalf of an industry governing body such as the GIA. In this paper you will be introduced to a novel and unique technological solution to accurately and repeatably measure the Brilliance of a gemstone, particularly in a Diamond.

Part 2 of this Basic Metallurgy Series looks at how alloy microstructure is influenced by melting & solidification, by subsequent deformation and by annealing treatments of deformed (cold-worked) material. This in turn affects mechanical properties and the ability to further process the material without causing cracking and fracture. The process of recrystallization during annealing to restore ductility is explained and how annealing time and temperature affects the microstructure, particularly grain size.

This paper presents an updated review of challenges and opportunities in platinum laser beam powder bed fusion (LB-PBF), which has emerged as a promising technique for fabricating complex and intricate platinum jewelry pieces. Bridging the gap between existing reviews and the current landscape of the technology, in this paper, the origins of defects in LB-PBF and strategies for enhancing part quality through build file preparation, support structure attachment and post-processing are reviewed. Insight and background to the observed process-microstructure-property relationship for additively manufactured Platinum Ruthenium 950 is provided, and the implications of this for the material performance and post-processing techniques are discussed. Finally, powder supply considerations and the potential benefits of new platinum alloys designed for additive manufacturing are presented. As additive manufacturing continues to transform industries, the insights from this paper intend to contribute to advancing platinum LB-PBF’s capabilities for jewellery applications.

The presentation is focused on introducing Binder Jet technology in its applications for jewelry making and showing results from one year of use of 3D binder jet printers at our laboratories in Bressanvido, Italy. Binder jetting is still not well known in the jewelry sector, although remarkably known in other industries. It has a remarkably different concept of work from Selective Laser Melting, and our practical experiences over one year of testing and production using it will be shared during the presentation.

Many jewelry trade professionals already go through a process to identify, analyze, and assess an item’s quality and nature. Is it comprehensive and systematic? GIA provides a framework for building experience and expertise, including guiding you to identify areas where you need to gain more exposure. Many know only certain aspects of manufacturing and can only recognize a narrow range of specific make traces. You may recognize a die-struck jewelry finding (such as a six-prong die-struck head) but not when a mold was used to recast it to make a piece of jewelry. Do you understand why that matters? This short introduction to jewelry forensics overviews the two-and-a-half-day class, identifying hand-fabricated components, cast components, CAD/CAM manufactured components, and cast-in-place gemstones as examples.

The world of Jewelry design has witnessed a transformation in recent years, driven by a growing customer demand for unique, durable, and aesthetically captivating products. To meet these demands, manufacturers are moving towards innovative ways including high-end CNC machining, robotic applications & digital transformation. These transformational trends have inspired us to experiment with various metals such as stainless steel, aluminum, tungsten & titanium. Amongst these metals titanium-based jewelry has high specific strength, corrosion resistance, and is easily surface modified by temperature or anodization to acquire a sophisticated aesthetic color. Titanium is more durable than gold or platinum, has a lower price and presently is a fashion material due to the successful use in challengeable applications. As black titanium has got high zirconium content leading to its flammable nature, we are gaining experiences using combination of specific programs, tools & process parameters to overcome the challenges and meet the product requirement. Going beyond plain Titanium jewelry, we have also developed the capabilities in various types of diamond setting types like Pave, bezel, prong etc., with different skill sets and tools. This paper elaborates the journey of developing machining processes, various diamond settings & assembly capabilities.

It has been some time since safety was addressed in manufacturing in a forum like this. My 1998 paper for the Society of North American Goldsmiths and my book several years later covered most of what is important for small to medium sized shops, but it is time to revisit the subject (and expand the safety discussion into new technologies). This paper outlines an introduction to the main broad issues of safety in a smaller production or workshop studio situation, revisits what categories of things to pay attention to, and offers a review of some new issues arising from contemporary technology use.

While the jewelry industry is deeply rooted in traditional tools and techniques, we must recognize that generative AI exists and is readily available today to assist jewelers. The intersection between AI and the creative arts is especially controversial, and the use of generative AI in jewelry design is no different. This paper will explore how generative AI creates images based on text prompts. We’ll compare some of the common software platforms with a specific focus on creating realistic jewelry images. We will see how designers are already leveraging this technology to advance their creative output. We will navigate the new fields of ethical, legal, and regulatory questions that have arisen around AI generated art. Lastly, we’ll explore how we as jewelry designers can best use this new tool to enhance our creative expression.

Allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) induced by metals is an acknowledged scientific concern, with nickel (Ni) being particularly prominent. Yet, numerous transition metals are increasingly coming to dermatological attention due to their allergenic properties under specific conditions. A key challenge in the field has been not just the identification of allergenic metals but also understanding their potency or their capability to induce sensitisation or elicitation. Traditionally, elicitation thresholds for metals are derived from clinical studies. However, in the absence of such literature for certain potential allergen metals, the ‘AnchorCert Pro’ methodology stands out. Using a comprehensive statistical approach grounded in extensive sample data, it offers unparalleled precision in defining these thresholds. Developed over three years at the Birmingham Assay Office’s AnchorCert Analytical Laboratory, this method rigorously examines metals’ allergenic potentials in consumer goods. Detailed evaluations using an innovative artificial sweat medium help determine if specific metals surpass recommended levels. Notably, it aligns with the EN 1811 standards for nickel release; the methodology further defines the release patterns of 16 potential skin sensitisers. A positive result from the AnchorCert Pro assures that the component is skin-friendly and lessens the chances of metal-induced ACD, even in sensitised individuals, heralding an era of enhanced skin protection. This compliance implies a robust defence against both the induction and elicitation phases of metal allergies. Adjustments to the methodology ensure it remains compatible with REACH Lead/Cadmium and RoHS directives for electro-technical products. Current research efforts are geared towards integrating additional US regulatory standards for jewellery and other consumer items, with a focus on redefining metal safety standards for jewellery & consumer goods, echoing the promise encapsulated in the title.

The paper will expose readers to an old technology which is in the midst of a grand revival. Many jewelers and watchmakers around the world are developing new uses and new designs with the help of these machines. New machines are coming on the market to help fill the needs. The paper will cover the most recent advances in the techniques and processes along with examples of finished work.

In this speech, divided into three blocks, we will address: • Characteristics and manipulation. Origin of these metals and main qualities (malleability, ductility, toughness, mechanical resistance and weight), their different alloys and benefits of each of them. The way in which they must be worked, and the processes to which they react in a remarkably different way than the precious metals traditionally used in jewelry. • Welding. The different welding methods most suitable for both metals, advantages, and disadvantages of each type of technology. Preparation and cleaning of surfaces to be welded. Welding, finishing and preparation for anodizing. • Anodizing. Differences in the anodizing of both metals and their different processes. Qualities of each one, colors, range of tones and durability.

Platinum electroforming never came into prominence as a method of jewellery production due to challenges with bath life, cost, recovery and refining of platinum, stability in production and product quality. Recent breakthroughs have addressed some of these limitations, enhancing the performance and feasibility of platinum electroforming as a manufacturing method, thereby opening new opportunities for platinum in the market. While the technical aspects of platinum electroforming are being resolved, it is also essential to scrutinize its application in product design; to ensure that the technology’s potential is harnessed effectively, resulting in the creation of new market opportunities and not disrupt through lowered prices. By strategically leveraging platinum electroforming, innovative product designs can access untapped consumer segments and generate new business potentials. The purpose of this paper is to discuss the need to consider both the technical advancements and the design applications of platinum electroforming. By doing so, the jewellery industry can capitalize on the enhanced performance of this technology, enabling the creation of unique, high-quality platinum jewellery that appeals to a diverse range of consumers.

The Apprenticeship Task Force is working on curriculum and support materials to help jewelry businesses successfully take on apprentices with federal recognition and support. This report will present the work being done to take advantage of new legislation which focuses on supporting apprenticeships. Questions like the following will be answered: What is the legislature that can be applied to for benefits? What kind of support does if offer for apprenticeships? How can jewelry businesses access these supports? What is MJSA doing to facilitate federal recognition of our industry’s needs, organizing frameworks, and developing curriculum to support training?

To open the inaugural year of The Jewelry Symposium, it is germane to look back on the progress our industry has made in information sharing and advancing technology. Part reminiscence, part industry history, this presentation reviews the creation of The Jewelry Symposium’s predecessor, the Santa Fe Symposium®, and strives to serve as a reminder that anyone can do research.

Many nearly forgotten ancient metalsmithing technologies are still very relevant for metalsmithing practice today. This is an examination of gemstone foiling techniques from ancient times to the present. This highly effective technique has been largely forgotten by today’s metalsmiths and is due for a revival. The modernization of diamond cutting led to foiling becoming a forgotten technology, despite the large number of metalsmiths who use gemstones besides brilliant cut diamonds. Modern foiling methods are an easy and effective way to improve the light reflection in gemstones and this skill should be a part of the modern metalsmithing lexicon.

In each step of manufacturing jewelry, there are many factors that can adversely affect quality. Because of this, process control is very important. The investing process is one of those steps in which process control is vital. Multiple process factors will be focused on including water quality, the temperature of the water and of the powder, and also the water-to-powder mixing ratio. This paper will show how dependent the properties, and thus the performance, of gypsum-based investment are to these factors.

The aim of this series of ‘Basic Metallurgy’ presentations is to help jewelers better understand the science and technology that underpins the manufacture of jewelry in their industry, be it by traditional handcraft techniques or by mass manufacture on machines. This is important if they are to produce good product efficiently and avoid defects and other problems that impact quality, time taken and especially costs. In Part I, we look at how alloying affects the properties of the jewelry precious metals and the influence of working and annealing on these properties.

ED-XRF analysis techniques are becoming increasingly popular in the jewelry industry. The possibility of measuring a finished object of even complex shape, without destroying or ruining it, very quickly, is a unique attraction compared to other conventional techniques (e.g. ICP or fire assay). Despite their relative popularity, however, X-ray fluorescence-based techniques were generally relegated to a marginal role, limited to checking the rough composition, due to the perception that this type of measurement is inaccurate. Calibrating the analyzer with good references, choosing specific measurement parameters and understanding the structure of the analyzed jewelry are fundamental in allowing much more precise and accurate measurements. In our tests, we work with and on the new ISO 23345, which defines calibration, measurement and interpretation of data for fineness analysis by ED-XRF.

The presentation is focused on introducing Binder Jet technology in its applications for jewelry making and showing results from one year of use of 3D binder jet printers at our laboratories in Bressanvido, Italy. Binder jetting is still not well known in the jewelry sector, although remarkably known in other industries. It has a remarkably different concept of work from Selective Laser Melting, and our practical experiences over one year of testing and production using it will be shared during the presentation.

Given that additively manufactured (AM) platinum alloys are relatively new to the market, early adopters benefit from increasing data on their material properties. The alloy 95% platinum 5% ruthenium (950 PtRu) is widely used across the United States in cast and fabricated forms, however there is scant data in the literature for AM outputs of this alloy. The present work reports mechanical properties and microstructures for Direct Metal Laser Sintered (DMLS) 950 PtRu in the as-printed and hot isostatic pressed conditions, and further offers comparisons with investment cast samples produced in the same alloy to highlight differences in material properties for each method of manufacture.

Bulk metallic glasses based on precious metals offer exceptional hardness compared to conventional crystalline alloys. They can be processed like plastics via routes analogous to injection molding, with excellent as-cast surface finish and far shorter cycle times compared to conventional investment casting of crystalline alloys. The properties of these alloys were presented and discussed at the 34th Santa Fe Symposium. Amongst many potential applications are hallmark-compliant watch casings and jewelry. For the former, current hallmarked alloys are generally too soft. Results of accelerated lab tests for a Pd500 BMG in comparison with comparable crystalline alloys are presented, to assess the suitability of BMGs for watch and jewelry. The outcomes are discussed and critically evaluated to understand the suitability of these alloys now and in the future.

Innovations in the gems and jewellery sector have paved the way for creating and designing unique solutions that cater to increasing consumer demands for quality and value. This paper reviews the design and development of functional testing machines in jewellery manufacturing. Jewellery manufacturers face significant challenges in ensuring the quality of the products based on international standards. Worldwide, diverse types of functional tests are being performed as per the industrial standards to ensure the product reliability and durability. Sunjewels has developed a range of automated testing machines capable of ensuring reliability, durability, and functionality of various product parameters. These machines are used in testing of jewellery clasps, hinges, posts, and plating life. Some of these machines were used in adherence testing of enamel and ceramic coating which led to successful development of a new line of products.

Precious based bulk metallic glasses (BMG) are interesting materials for jewelry and watch making applications due to their properties such as high as-cast hardness, corrosion resistance, and outstanding surface quality. However, high critical cooling rates are required to achieve amorphous solidification which implies challenges for their manufacturing. Thus, they are cast in metallic molds which strongly limits the geometric complexity of cast parts. The present work focuses on the process development for investment based casting of Pt-P-Cu based BMGs in order to allow for jewelry casting on an industrial scale. The results of centrifugal and vacuum-die casting applied for two different alloys are presented. One of the alloys contains 74wt% Platinum and shows a high glass forming ability, whereas the other alloy has 85wt% Platinum with a significantly lower glass forming ability. Cast filigree jewelry parts with an outstanding surface quality have been demonstrated.

One of the most underrated tools in a jeweler’s arsenal is the sink trap. It can be a difficult and unpleasant tool to use, but it’s necessary. It makes the metal recovery process more efficient and is essential to the financial bottom line of any jewelry operation. I’ll share my 14 years of experience with this essential tool and will review sink trap sizes, considerations for installation, what you can and cannot put down the drain, and how to effectively clean it.

Today, many companies manufacture jewelry from stainless steel. This is especially attractive with the high prices of precious metals. There is little jewelry manufacturing information published for those that sit at the bench and who may come across stainless steel or desire to create with it. This presentation will remove the mysteries of working with stainless steel in the small shop setting, detail common, readily available alloys, highlight steps for working with stainless steel, as well as showcase examples of stainless-steel jewelry in production today. From the skills necessary to touch up a stock piece of stainless-steel jewelry all the way through cutting, fabricating, machining, soldering, and finishing, this paper will leave the reader with the skills necessary to work with stainless steel and also how to combine it with precious metals.

This presentation will illustrate advancements in a couple of different fields, some related to the jewelry industry, others not, how they can be incorporated into the jewelry industry, and how we as jewelers can use these technologies to aid us in the fabrication and production of what  we currently do. In addition, it will illustrate when the advancements in a field go far enough, it drives down the price of the technology to become attainable to some studio jewelers and others. The caveat is that when the price goes down, most times, the technical support diminishes as well. Lastly, how to have fun with a variety of technologies (in general) to explore and develop new concepts, ideas, and product for the studio jeweler.

Origin determination represents one of the most difficult aspects of gem identification for gem-testing laboratories, and one that is not well understood by many in the jewelry trade. The gem trade wants to be told, with complete accuracy, where their colored gemstones come from. Unfortunately, science cannot provide this capability. Thus, laboratories must rely on the experience of their most senior gemologists and a familiarity with gem materials from the different deposits to make origin determinations. This is the reason that these determinations are expert opinions – they are not facts. This presentation will go discuss the challenges of identifying gemstone origins, why those origins affect the price and value, and why these same criteria are not as critical for diamond evaluation.

The use of granules to decorate a surface is well known and has been practiced for centuries. This work investigates the construction of a 3D piece entirely from granules. The granules will be arranged in a mold to impart a three- dimensional form. Diffusion bonding of the granules to each other will be achieved by sintering or hot pressing: the application of heating and deformation. The goal is to produce a robust form with a unique aesthetic appeal.